5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

batt/alt issue

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 11, 2008 | 04:54 PM
  #1  
LOUDexhaust's Avatar
LOUDexhaust
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 695
From: SC Upstate
Default batt/alt issue

I'm having a problem with my 91 GT. In the past 2 weeks, it has left me stranded since it wouldn't start. My battery was dead on all occasions and a jump solved the issue. Now, on my stock volt meter, the voltage reads just above 13volts when i'm driving. I just drove about 33 miles like this, shut off my car and 5 minutes later it didn't have enough juice to start. I thought it might be my starter for a little bit but my battery is going dead, the radio memory is completely wiped. I just went to the parts store and they tested my battery and it passed the test, it was as about 9.34 volts when they tested it. Now, if my alt was bad, how could i make it 33 miles? Could their test be wrong? The batt is at least 2 years old, it came with my car and is not name brand or anything. is my batt fried or is this a good opportunity to upgrade to the 3g?
Old Oct 11, 2008 | 05:54 PM
  #2  
JJfox's Avatar
JJfox
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 21
Default

sounds like your going to have to go 3g i doubt your wires to the alt and going to the batter r bad but u never know check ur grounds but seems your not charging right because a car can stay on without a problem without a battery hell at least my car does but if u can have the part store test your alt to be sure.
Old Oct 11, 2008 | 06:45 PM
  #3  
NYMustang50's Avatar
NYMustang50
3rd Gear Member
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 538
From: New York
Default

Get a new battery.. of course the factory volt meter will show above 13. Alternators are made to put out 14+ so they charge the battery and give enough power for the cars accessories. Its your battery because its not excepting a charge. 9.34 volts is falling even like 11 is falling. A battery should never be lower than 12 volts. Get a new battery and then tell us if you have more problems. But it seriously sounds like the battery. If you have the money get a yellow top or some type of agm(assorted glass mat) battery or an interstate battery.

Last edited by NYMustang50; Oct 11, 2008 at 06:48 PM.
Old Oct 11, 2008 | 07:50 PM
  #4  
LOUDexhaust's Avatar
LOUDexhaust
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 695
From: SC Upstate
Default

so you don't think those battery testers are any good? the only reason i wouldn't think it was the batt is because it passed the little batt test at advance, but everything else says battery.

i said the alt was putting out 13+ to show that it is probably not the alt that is failing.
Old Oct 11, 2008 | 08:22 PM
  #5  
ttocs's Avatar
ttocs
6th Gear Member
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,936
From:
Default

I had a diode on my alt start to go bad a few months back when it started to get really hot here(phoenix really hot = 105+). It would keep the car running at first but left the batter to low to crank. after about a week(not dd) it was having problems idleing as the voltage was dropping below 11. I would go back to autozone and have your alt checked, takes 3 mins.......
Old Oct 11, 2008 | 10:12 PM
  #6  
NYMustang50's Avatar
NYMustang50
3rd Gear Member
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 538
From: New York
Default

Originally Posted by LOUDexhaust
so you don't think those battery testers are any good? the only reason i wouldn't think it was the batt is because it passed the little batt test at advance, but everything else says battery.

i said the alt was putting out 13+ to show that it is probably not the alt that is failing.
There not like the ones i use at the shop. Im a mechanic my self I do still go to school for it but Im working also in the field. Those testers they have are junk. Get a battery. Im 99% sure its just a battery issue for you. Go to a local dealership or if you know anyone at a local shop or dealership any dealership ask them to do a battery test on the battery. (you dont need the car just bring the battery) tell them to use the snapon tester or the midtronics tester.. Preferably the midtronics.
Old Mar 6, 2009 | 05:52 PM
  #7  
LOUDexhaust's Avatar
LOUDexhaust
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 695
From: SC Upstate
Default

Well I got a new Duralast battery shortly after my original post and I am having issues again. It was getting harder to start and I got stranded again today. Went to Autozone and their damn tester said the battery was 'A' ok, 940 crank amps I think the guy said it had.

I was starting to think maybe it's the starter but after a jump its fine. Started on its own after driving ~2 miles, after the jump.

Any thoughts?
Old Mar 6, 2009 | 06:02 PM
  #8  
Five0hFox's Avatar
Five0hFox
3rd Gear Member
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 766
From: Kansas
Default

Personally, I think it might be your cables.
Old Mar 6, 2009 | 06:04 PM
  #9  
onebad88lx's Avatar
onebad88lx
1st Gear Member
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 63
From: nc
Default

go get ur alt tested man that could be it and it takes very lil time
Old Mar 6, 2009 | 06:09 PM
  #10  
LOUDexhaust's Avatar
LOUDexhaust
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 695
From: SC Upstate
Default

I got the alt tested before I bought this battery and it was fine.

What do you think is wrong with the cables? Think they just need to be replaced, maybe something a little thicker?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:17 PM.