What tool to remove driveshaft??
Hey guys, been a while since I've posted here, probably because I've been way too busy to work on my car lately. Anyway, I know for a fact the next thing I will do to my car is the tranny conversion, because either my AOD tranny or the torque converter, or both, is going bad... It'll slip a lot on the lower rpm's.
Anyway, I was just wondering if anyone can point to me the tools you think would come in handy, including the tool to remove the driveshaft, if you can find a site that sells it just so I can see the picture, that would be nice, just so I'll know what to look for when I go to the store.
Also, any pointers would be appreciated.
Thanks guys!
Anyway, I was just wondering if anyone can point to me the tools you think would come in handy, including the tool to remove the driveshaft, if you can find a site that sells it just so I can see the picture, that would be nice, just so I'll know what to look for when I go to the store.
Also, any pointers would be appreciated.
Thanks guys!
Driveshaft? Thats simple all you need is a socket wrench, or if you want a air gun. Just take off the 4 bolts that connect the driveshaft and the axle and pull it out.
What year is it again?
What year is it again?
Oh really? It is just held on by bolts? Man, do I need some lock-tite or something when I reattach it or something? What about any specific torquing requirements?
Yes there is a torque spec for the U-Joint bolts, if you overtighten them you will warp or put unwanted pressure on the caps and promote wear on the U- Joints. U-Joint failures are no fun at all!!! I can check my shop manual when I get home, most if not all years should be the same torque spec.
As far as draining the fluid, it is not necessary as you can leave the driveshaft in the transmission when you drop it as long as it is unbolted and hanging loose in the rear. Use some electrical tape to wrap around the U-Joint so you don't have to play with needle bearings later, but in all honesty I would replace the U-joints with heavy duty units from lakewood or someone else. They are cheap and a good peice of mind. If you leave the driveshaft in the tranny then it won't leak and you can pull it after you have the tranny out of the car. My usual deal is to leave it, get the tranny out, put a small bucket under the snout of the tranny and pull the drive shaft. Then stick the tranny in a 5 gallon bucket snout first to drain overnight.
As far as draining the fluid, it is not necessary as you can leave the driveshaft in the transmission when you drop it as long as it is unbolted and hanging loose in the rear. Use some electrical tape to wrap around the U-Joint so you don't have to play with needle bearings later, but in all honesty I would replace the U-joints with heavy duty units from lakewood or someone else. They are cheap and a good peice of mind. If you leave the driveshaft in the tranny then it won't leak and you can pull it after you have the tranny out of the car. My usual deal is to leave it, get the tranny out, put a small bucket under the snout of the tranny and pull the drive shaft. Then stick the tranny in a 5 gallon bucket snout first to drain overnight.
I am also going to be pulling my driveshaft....have already taken off the front of the driveshaft that connects to the back of the tranny....I know the four bolts are a bitch to get off as they are on there tight....definetly going to need a air ratchet to get them off as I can't muscle them off
Jeff
Project 89 GT resurrection
Brandon, Florida
Jeff
Project 89 GT resurrection
Brandon, Florida


