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tdc on #1

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Old 11-20-2008, 01:57 AM
  #1  
crusin92red5.0
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Default tdc on #1

what is the easiest way to bring the motor around to tdc on #1 cyclinder on the compression stroke with the heads off? the reason i ask is cuz next wed when i get a break from school i am going to pull the pass side head off and check the block and head with a straight edge and i might as well re stab the dizzy so i can check that off the list of reasons my car runs like crap

also what is the tolerance for a warped block/head? sorry i don't know the exact way to ask it. i heard 3 thousandths. is that correct? thanks

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Old 11-20-2008, 06:43 AM
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mjr46
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set motor on tdc before you pull it apart!! pull plug and roll motor over until you feel air pushing past your finger while holding finger over hole then pull cap and make sure rotor is pointing at no 1 on cap..fyi you don't need to pull the head to see if your block surface or head surface is warped, if there are no coolant leaks and compression test comes back fine, it would be a waste to pull heads.
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Old 11-20-2008, 06:47 AM
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Joel5.0
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Why are you removing the head to check for flatness?...... any sealing problems with the head gaskets?

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Old 11-20-2008, 10:03 AM
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MBDiagMan
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On a running engine, there is an easier way to determine compression stroke. Simply remove the distributor cap after noting which post is number one. Turn the crankshaft to TDC with the rotor pointing at the number one post.

When you are putting an engine together or don't know it's position, that's when you have to use the thumb over the plug hole trick.
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Old 11-20-2008, 12:04 PM
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crusin92red5.0
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Originally Posted by mjr46
set motor on tdc before you pull it apart!! pull plug and roll motor over until you feel air pushing past your finger while holding finger over hole then pull cap and make sure rotor is pointing at no 1 on cap..fyi you don't need to pull the head to see if your block surface or head surface is warped, if there are no coolant leaks and compression test comes back fine, it would be a waste to pull heads.
Originally Posted by Joel5.0
Why are you removing the head to check for flatness?...... any sealing problems with the head gaskets?
the reason i'm pulling the head back off is becuase i do have a small but noticable leak coming from the corner the head/block(small bolt). i thought i didn't clean the block well enough the first time so i went back down there the second time and cleaned it good and still got the leak at the same spot.

So what is the tolerance anyway?
Also when i scrap the old remembrence(?) of the gasket off the block with a razor blade there is always a trace of it being there kinda like an imprint on the block is that normal?

Is there a better tool to do this with?
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Old 11-20-2008, 01:11 PM
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Joel5.0
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Originally Posted by crusin92red5.0

Is there a better tool to do this with?
Yep...... a sharpening stone....



It also helps in ID'ing lower spots.
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Old 11-20-2008, 01:13 PM
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crusin92red5.0
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where do you get that at? is that for sharping knives?
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Old 11-20-2008, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by crusin92red5.0
where do you get that at? is that for sharping knives?
Yep......it should be available at any HD hardware store or any of the tool trucks. I buy them from the Matco distributor.
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Old 11-20-2008, 03:16 PM
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if i remember right its .002 within a 6" area. but thats for an ls1 not a 302.
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Old 11-20-2008, 04:12 PM
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mjr46
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did you coat the lower /shorter bolts with thread sealer?? as they go into water jackets and that may be the source of your leak
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