How hot do long tubes get?
#1
How hot do long tubes get?
I just ordered a set of MAC ceramic coated long tubes for my 306 and i heard they get kind of crummy looking after a while so i was looking into doing something with them.
I looked in to jet-hot.com and they wanted $450 to coat them in gloss black.
They cant be just powdercoated
I foind that POR 15 makes an exhaust paint that can withstand temps of 1200 degrees.
Whats the hottest my headers will get??
Thank you for your help..
I looked in to jet-hot.com and they wanted $450 to coat them in gloss black.
They cant be just powdercoated
I foind that POR 15 makes an exhaust paint that can withstand temps of 1200 degrees.
Whats the hottest my headers will get??
Thank you for your help..
#2
I guess I need to shoot my primaries with my ray-tech gun. I don't think they would get close to 1200*, but I know my MAC longtubes get hot enough to burn my dang fingers just grazing by them.
#4
*lift off the hood* and squeeze the trigger on the ray tech gun while it is at full operating temps and will hold it at 2000 or so for a few minutes and see what's up. Need someone else to do this if you are in a hurry. I still have a week left at work before I get to go home for 14 days.
#5
Even if you rev it up to 5 or 6K its still not under a load. I have a pyro gauge on my truck and i can ping it off the rev limiter and it doesnt go up much but when im going 70 and i punch it it lights right up.. There has to be a better way to tell...
#9
So that POR 15 1200 degree stuff is not a good idea. Do you guys know of anything i can put on them so they dont look crummy after a while? Im going to POR15 the entire engine bay after i weld all the holes closed and hide the wiring.
#10
A lot depends on how rich or lean the engine is running and what RPM the engine is at. The Gloss Black coating even from Jet hot won't take extreme heat but then again I doubt you will need it. With Ceramic coat headers of any brand the seacret it to heat cycle the headers at least three times before going out and runing them hard. This cures the ceramic coating and it will last a lot longer and will keep the headers looking like now for a long time. The mistake people make is they throw a set of ceramic coated headers on a brand new engine and break it in and tune it without the right heat cycles and it ruins the coating and they start looking crummy in a few months.
If I have a car already up and runnning and tuned to track conditions or a street car I'll buy ceramic headers and install them and drive them a round easy a few days then let them rip. On a car like the one I have now I ran the engine in on the dyno but used a set of dyno headers (about the same as what I'm running) but I bought uncoated headers just in case I had to put a dimple or two in them. When I get my car finshed, track tested and dialed in I'll pull the headers and have them ceramic coated. I'm going with a satin black coating because this isn't a show car and the black ceramic coating is good to 2500 degrees or more and I won't have to worry about it anymore even is I decide to split the block with a shot of Nitrous.
If I have a car already up and runnning and tuned to track conditions or a street car I'll buy ceramic headers and install them and drive them a round easy a few days then let them rip. On a car like the one I have now I ran the engine in on the dyno but used a set of dyno headers (about the same as what I'm running) but I bought uncoated headers just in case I had to put a dimple or two in them. When I get my car finshed, track tested and dialed in I'll pull the headers and have them ceramic coated. I'm going with a satin black coating because this isn't a show car and the black ceramic coating is good to 2500 degrees or more and I won't have to worry about it anymore even is I decide to split the block with a shot of Nitrous.