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400hp?

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Old 06-06-2009, 07:35 AM
  #11  
mjr46
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cam is so so for a 302 set up, heads ?? you do know those are bare castings??......patriot heads are not the best quality, start your combo research again
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Old 06-06-2009, 11:44 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by quicksilver24
For the 302 I would go up to the next size cam, 224/230 I think? and about the same lift. On the heads, I don't know much about the Patriot heads?? They claim to be good! lOL. They are $995.00 Complete.
Do some research on them and find out if they are good.....the price is right!
AFR heads are sweet but they have a sweet price tag too. I'm not sure how much the TFS fast as cast heads run but they work well too.
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Old 06-06-2009, 11:52 AM
  #13  
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for a 347
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Old 06-06-2009, 12:05 PM
  #14  
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i found this cam on comp cams website, its for a 347. but what does it mean by computer modifications a must? does that mean getting it tuned?
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...y_Code=F50COMP

i'll go to acouple more sites to do some research on the patriots heads.
if a do go the AFR route, with the cam listed above, should i get the 165cc or the 185cc?
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Old 06-06-2009, 01:48 PM
  #15  
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In my opinion I would run the XE282HR; 232 int. 240exh. LCA 112
lift .565 .574

I think this is a better street cam and 114 LCA is too wide!
This cam will produce mor torque. I would think the AFR 185's
would work nicely together and you wouldn't have to rev it so high.
I'm thinking you could shift this setup at 6000-6200 and run some really
good times!
How is your Drivetrain going to be steup?
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Old 06-06-2009, 02:12 PM
  #16  
mjr46
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Originally Posted by KJMac
In my opinion I would run the XE282HR; 232 int. 240exh. LCA 112
lift .565 .574

I think this is a better street cam and 114 LCA is too wide!
This cam will produce mor torque. I would think the AFR 185's
would work nicely together and you wouldn't have to rev it so high.
I'm thinking you could shift this setup at 6000-6200 and run some really
good times!
How is your Drivetrain going to be steup?
I ran the xe 282 in my 347 with 185 heads, it was okay but left me wanting more so I swapped it out recently for a custom cam made specifically for my 347 combo, and now i'm happy, I have a 282 cam under my bench
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Old 06-06-2009, 02:20 PM
  #17  
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ok cool. thanks for the tips.
MJR46 what specs did you get for your custom cam and where did get it made it?

i'll be running a AOD tranny, with a 3500 stall, with 3.73 gears. would that work good with the XE282HR cam, typhoon intake and 185cc AFR heads 347 stroker?
for the stall, whats the difference between the lock up and non lock up?
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Old 06-06-2009, 02:30 PM
  #18  
mjr46
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Originally Posted by quicksilver24
ok cool. thanks for the tips.
MJR46 what specs did you get for your custom cam and where did get it made it?

i'll be running a AOD tranny, with a 3500 stall, with 3.73 gears. would that work good with the XE282HR cam, typhoon intake and 185cc AFR heads 347 stroker?
for the stall, whats the difference between the lock up and non lock up?
you'll probably want more than a 3500 stall with the xe282, and with an aod at least 4.10 gears

for the convertor question here is a quote from a guy on another site:

NON-LOCKUP converter means transmission NEVER "locks up" with engine, which means the converter is always slipping, at any speed, rpm, throttle position...This also means more heat so make sure you have the biggest "stacked plate type" cooler you can fit...if you took my advice a few years ago about the Hayden version, you're good to go on that. The non lockup converter is "usually" the better choice for a street/strip car, but obviously since it never "locks" your cruise mileage will suffer...

LOCKUP converter on an AOD means that depending on what aftermarket valve body you have, the converter is "locked up" in either OVERDRIVE only, or like a stock AOD, which means lockup in DRIVE and OVERDRIVE. The latter type is/was the main cause of higher powered cars breaking their input shafts. Stock aod has a two piece input shaft (inner and outer). Outer (stronger) shaft is for Reverse, 1st and 2nd gears...smaller (weaker) inner input shaft is for Drive and Overdrive.

Look at it this way...you take a car that's making some power...add a shift kit and a higher stall "lockup" converter. The converter is doing it's job and slipping (as 100% of the torque converters do) to multiply torque in 1st and 2nd gears, but when it shifts into 3rd (drive), the converter is also "locking up" at that exact moment and depending on the small, weak inner input shaft to absorb the horsepower and torque of your engine...It usually doesn't take too long to find the weak link, which is the inner input shaft. You make 500rwhp, and shift into DRIVE @ WOT and BANG!!!, there goes the inner input shaft, which means you lose DRIVE and OVERDRIVE gears in the transmission since there's no longer any "connection
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Old 06-06-2009, 05:07 PM
  #19  
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so a non lock up is easier on the drive train but you lose power because of the slipping and the lock up you feel more of the power but its harder on the drive train. is that right? im planning on making my car a street/strip car, but also a good cruising car (leaning more towards a good cruising car because its my daily driver)
so would i be better off swapping to a manual tranny?
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Old 06-06-2009, 05:45 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Lysawy
306 is just 302 .30 over basic rebuilt !!!!
Not always! Ever heard of a long rod 306? Has a 5.4 rod and uses 408 pistons with a stock stroke crank. Not even close to just a rebuild.
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