Common Problems: Looking for Solutions
06-13-2009, 11:37 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 199
Common Problems: Looking for Solutions
Hi guys. Ive not posted on the forums in a while, and I apologize. Been trying to get my finances situated and busy with a new son.
Now on to important matters It's finally getting warm out, so I want to get my car in tip-top shape so I can drive it again. A few common problems im having, hoping for a FINAL fix for it.
All of this applies to a 1994 MUSTANG GT 5.0 convertible.
First: Stuttering of steering wheel while driving and braking:
When I drive down the street, the car stutters and the wheel shakes side to side. I had both front rotors turned and it helped it out when braking, but when driving it still shakes around. It almost feels like the hub or tire is wobbling, but when you wiggle the tire it's solid.
Second: Spiratic idle/surging:
The all common spiratic idling/surging known to be common on mustangs. I replaced the IAC valve, relearned base idle, and had MAF/MAP sensor/TPS checked, all turn out fine and are within acceptable range. Any other ideas to check? No check engine light. (With the IAC valve disconnected, there is no noticeable difference in idle so I think it's got something to do with idle or fuel related)
Finally: Adjusting clutch cable:
How do you adjust the clutch cable? I read to pull up on pedal and than floor it and if you hear a click it adjusted. Done this several times and its not adjusting it any. Is it possible the cable got stretched and is too loose now, or is it just my clutch is going out? When driving the car, if I accelerate too fast, (like getting on the highway from an onramp), no matter what gear I am in, the car revs really high. I have to slowly get up to speed for it to stop. When it starts doing it, you can feel the clutch pedal loosen a bit (like the clutch is slipping off the flywheel or something and making it have some free play). Once the car is warmed up, it doesn't appear to do it as frequently, or it appears to do it not as randomly. Doesn't have any problems shifting into gears or driving at normal speeds, unless it's just starting up for the first time in a while, than takeoff is a bit loud.
Sorry for such a large post guys, just trying to get my car finally on the road without any problems.
Now on to important matters It's finally getting warm out, so I want to get my car in tip-top shape so I can drive it again. A few common problems im having, hoping for a FINAL fix for it.
All of this applies to a 1994 MUSTANG GT 5.0 convertible.
First: Stuttering of steering wheel while driving and braking:
When I drive down the street, the car stutters and the wheel shakes side to side. I had both front rotors turned and it helped it out when braking, but when driving it still shakes around. It almost feels like the hub or tire is wobbling, but when you wiggle the tire it's solid.
Second: Spiratic idle/surging:
The all common spiratic idling/surging known to be common on mustangs. I replaced the IAC valve, relearned base idle, and had MAF/MAP sensor/TPS checked, all turn out fine and are within acceptable range. Any other ideas to check? No check engine light. (With the IAC valve disconnected, there is no noticeable difference in idle so I think it's got something to do with idle or fuel related)
Finally: Adjusting clutch cable:
How do you adjust the clutch cable? I read to pull up on pedal and than floor it and if you hear a click it adjusted. Done this several times and its not adjusting it any. Is it possible the cable got stretched and is too loose now, or is it just my clutch is going out? When driving the car, if I accelerate too fast, (like getting on the highway from an onramp), no matter what gear I am in, the car revs really high. I have to slowly get up to speed for it to stop. When it starts doing it, you can feel the clutch pedal loosen a bit (like the clutch is slipping off the flywheel or something and making it have some free play). Once the car is warmed up, it doesn't appear to do it as frequently, or it appears to do it not as randomly. Doesn't have any problems shifting into gears or driving at normal speeds, unless it's just starting up for the first time in a while, than takeoff is a bit loud.
Sorry for such a large post guys, just trying to get my car finally on the road without any problems.
06-14-2009, 06:51 AM
#4
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
1. have the tires put on a balancer and while they are spun , look for a tire out of round and or bent rim
2. run a koer test
3. if the problem occured after clutch install it is related to the install, was flywheel resurfaced?? what kind of clutch??
2. run a koer test
3. if the problem occured after clutch install it is related to the install, was flywheel resurfaced?? what kind of clutch??
06-14-2009, 01:07 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 199
Going to get the tires balanced today. As for the KOER test, it came back with absolutely nothing.
Last person that installed it, it worked fine for a while than started acting up. New clutch hasnt been installed since.
Last person that installed it, it worked fine for a while than started acting up. New clutch hasnt been installed since.
06-15-2009, 12:34 AM
#6
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: milwaukee NOT THE GHETTO PART
Posts: 1,025
take it back to the person that installed it, if it was set up right and broken in right. and everything set up correct. either 2 things it could be 1. your making to much power. 2. your beatting it to bad.
06-16-2009, 05:16 AM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 199
Person that installed it is no longer doing business (I can see now why), so it wouldn't do any good. After he replaced the clutch, it sat for about a year and a half without anyone driving it. I just recently got it out of storage from my dad and started driving it and this is the problem i'm having. It 100% went out today, so now I have no choice BUT to replace it, as soon as I can get the extra money to get one.
I didnt trust the person putting it in to begin with. My dad had him to it because he charged so little to do it, and at the time needed to get it done. I would have gladly taken it somewhere else but it wasn't my car at the time. He does shoddy work, and that is why he doesn't do the work anymore.
I didnt trust the person putting it in to begin with. My dad had him to it because he charged so little to do it, and at the time needed to get it done. I would have gladly taken it somewhere else but it wasn't my car at the time. He does shoddy work, and that is why he doesn't do the work anymore.
Last edited by Ex0r; 06-16-2009 at 05:19 AM.
06-17-2009, 05:39 PM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 199
I got the clutch today. I am going to start tear-down tomorrow and get it installed over the weekend hopefully. I don't have a plug to put inside the tranny, can I just pull out the drivetrain from it, remove the tranny and put the drive train back into it? I don't have anything to stick back there. Other than that, I have a guide that is going to help me out with removing it, and I found a video online the other day that also showed what to do.
06-17-2009, 06:28 PM
#9
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,788
As for you wheel/imbalance problem, I would take it to a tire shop for a rebalance. I work at Discount Tire and most of the time it's cheap or free to get them rebalanced and rotated. You may also have a bent rim. The slightest of bends can cause your car to sway. If this does not cure your problem, you could have an alignment issue. The stuttering of the wheel leads me to believe your alignment is off. As for your fluctuating idle, I would get some electrical contact cleaner and clean the crap out of the MAF. You can also get a code reader and pull codes.(Note: the check engine light does not have to be on to throw codes). Try pulling codes with the car off, then on. Usually you'll get different problems triggered.