NoGo95GT

Come on Adder, why do you have to be negative all the time!? And if you knew anything, you'd realize that a Vortech is a turbo

AdderMk2

i wasn't negative.... i was confused

luckythirteen13

if no one will say it then i will, on3 performance turbo kits are garbage!!!! they use cheap 304 stainless on the hotside, guarantied to crack in a year of daily driving. the turbo is a knock off unless you pay the extra money for a MP turbo. and iirc, the wg and bov are cheapy as well, can be had for $30 each on ebay.


they reason they have such a good rep now is that they are fairly new, the kits are dirt cheap and they work well in the short term. if the car was a track only kit id buy an on3 kit but for a dd, they will fail just like the ssautocrome crap

nitrotweaker

Like I said I am going to build the bottom end of the motor. I use to work for a race engine shop http://www.smreperformance.com/ so I have a good connection for the machine work and the parts. I kind of figger the hard parts of the kit looked a little on the cheap side. Another local place is http://www.bullseyepower.com/ I can get a nice turbo for about 800 bucks . I asked the guys at on3 if they would just sell the piping and they will not. So I buy the system and upgrade the systems parts and go from there. I have herd of the megasquirt and I think I am going to check into that setup. I have herd good reviews on it. I will be working on this car all winter so I will have plenty of pick's .

NoGo95GT

I know on the 2v's 4.6 they upgraded to mild steel. I am pretty sure 0N3 also does mild steel for the 5.0 as well.

nitrotweaker

Yha it's mild steal

luckythirteen13

whats the cost on the kit? if mild steel then the kit is pretty decent. if it was me id still go with b&g. you get a good turbo as well as quality bov and wg for about $3000. bolt in kit, hot and cold side

NoGo95GT

I think w/mild steel the kit is still under $2000. Uusally I tell people to stay away from the ebay kits primarily because they are junk and yes the hot-side does tend to crack w/the 304 stainless primarily because of their weak welds and not necc. the stainless tubing. But, I've seen this guy on various forums actually trying to show other people that "cheap" turbo kits can be made effectively. He seems to be backing up his product to with good support. I hope it works out for him because those kits he sells are priced well. Only time will tell the quality!

Lunatic50

I'm running the On3Performance kit and haven't had any problems so far, the headers and x-over are mild steel and they welded up a small brace to help with the weight of the turbo on the passenger header. The down pipe is SS, the only complaint I have with the kit is the tight fit where the x-over comes over and the cold side (From turbo to FMIC) is nearly touching the x-over.

Make sure you heat wrap the down pipe, and get a turbo blanket, otherwise that intake charge pipe gets a bit toasty.

I'm currently running 13 psi through my kit with no problems, the BOV and Wastegate keep up with it perfectly fine. Once you get everything together, you'll find that you'll need a boost controller of some sort to have much fun with it, because the heaviest spring you get will run 6 psi. When you get the kit, don't make the mistake I did and buy the "Low-budget T70" that comes in the cheap kit, the exhaust oil seal suck and you'll get a slight leak after the heat/cool process happens a few times. Get the MP T76 if you can afford it; you'll thank yourself later.

I'm currently running a draw-through C&L with out issues atm except the fact that the car runs a bit richer, but I'm getting the feeling I won't see to big of a change when I go to blow-through. In order to run an MAF unit you need to chop the cold side pipe after the bend and BOV (And extend your MAF wiring harness), because the kit was designed for you to put the car on a standalone. *Or they figured you'd want to make your own mount up for your MAF Sensor in their piping...*

FivePointOhh

thats how my buddy did his that i helped with