random 3500rpm misfire
11-20-2009, 02:57 PM
#1
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random 3500rpm misfire
alright guys, picked up this 95 5.0 last week(just has an o/r x and flows), have some fixer problems that i cant figure out. im not sure if this is the same problem or diferent problem all together but when the car is first started up it will run fine up till about 2000rpm and then kick and sputter like crazy, if i put it to the floor it will go past that but very horribly ha.
After it warms up it happens at around 3000-3500 rpms. i can go wot all the way up to that rpm with no problems. i replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter. still hasnt helped.
but heres the kicker, sometimes after it is warmed up, it will not miss and it will climb to 5000rpm no problem and then start missing. can anyone shed some light?
After it warms up it happens at around 3000-3500 rpms. i can go wot all the way up to that rpm with no problems. i replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter. still hasnt helped.
but heres the kicker, sometimes after it is warmed up, it will not miss and it will climb to 5000rpm no problem and then start missing. can anyone shed some light?
11-20-2009, 05:49 PM
#4
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11-21-2009, 04:44 PM
#6
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alrioght so with the KOER i got code 116, with the KOEO i got 212, 556... 116 sounds like its one that is a common one. 212 is something with SPOUT and 556 is fuel pump circuit. does anyone have a wiring diagram for SPOUT so i can check for shorts to ground and power?
11-21-2009, 05:13 PM
#7
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116 says that your ECT(Engine coolant temp) is out of range. In the 5.0 Tech articles, there is a guide called "Running Rich?" which gives the testing procedure for this sensor.
212 is IDM(Ignition diagnostic monitor). Actual code reads "Loss of ignition diagnostic monitor input to PCM or spark output circuit grounded."
Very lengthy diag procedure for this. First step would be verifying that the SPOUT connector is in place, and working properly. You'll be looking for this:
near the distributor somewhere(I believe... I do recall vaguely that your model, this might be located near the DLC where you did the KOEO/R tests). It's basic purpose is to link the two wires together and complete the circuit, so the computer can control timing curves. To set your base timing, you would remove it so the computer wouldn't override.
556 indicates fuel pump primary circuit fault. Again another lengthy diag, but could be as simple as the relay failing, which in that car is the CCRM(Constant Control Relay Module), located near the fan I believe? They're known for failure.
212 is IDM(Ignition diagnostic monitor). Actual code reads "Loss of ignition diagnostic monitor input to PCM or spark output circuit grounded."
Very lengthy diag procedure for this. First step would be verifying that the SPOUT connector is in place, and working properly. You'll be looking for this:
near the distributor somewhere(I believe... I do recall vaguely that your model, this might be located near the DLC where you did the KOEO/R tests). It's basic purpose is to link the two wires together and complete the circuit, so the computer can control timing curves. To set your base timing, you would remove it so the computer wouldn't override.556 indicates fuel pump primary circuit fault. Again another lengthy diag, but could be as simple as the relay failing, which in that car is the CCRM(Constant Control Relay Module), located near the fan I believe? They're known for failure.
Last edited by mattdel; 11-21-2009 at 06:10 PM.
11-21-2009, 10:20 PM
#8
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awesome thanks for the help again, ill check that stuff out, hopefully figure something out. i thought tinting the windows would help but ya kno, that just didnt seem to help lol weird...
11-23-2009, 09:58 AM
#9
Join Date: Nov 2009
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When I first read this I was thinking fuel pump. I don't believe it would be a relay, if it was then the car most likely just wouldn't run. But a fuel pump on its way to heaven(or hell depending on how naughty it was) could cause similar symptoms.
11-30-2009, 10:09 AM
#10
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update
tested out the pick-up coil in the dizzy and found it to be reading bad, so $20 later, and about 30 min of work tearing the dizzy apart and puttin it in, and the thing runs great. thanks for the help, still have an issue with it dieing at idle randomly and small surges, but i can live with that for now.
tested out the pick-up coil in the dizzy and found it to be reading bad, so $20 later, and about 30 min of work tearing the dizzy apart and puttin it in, and the thing runs great. thanks for the help, still have an issue with it dieing at idle randomly and small surges, but i can live with that for now.