ponyboy88

Im going to be putting a 460 (or bigger) 385-series motor into my 89 foxbody, itll take some time and money and yes i know i can build a small block cheaper and the front end will weigh the same as the great wall of china, all that aside i had a question.

I am going to swap in a disk rear thats been upgraded out of a late 90's GT (had a cobra axle but turned out to be bent). I was wondering if manual brakes would still be streetable with the 4 disk set up, or if anyone knew of a booster that would handle the 4 disk set up as well as fit with a carbed 460?

Thanks for any and all help, i think this'll be fun.

Tony71502

The booster vac usually runs into a port on the intake manifold on carbed cars. At least that's how it is on my chevelle.

With that said I think the possibility of using a power booster is based off of your engine build and how vacuum you have to spare.

ponyboy88

the engine should produce plenty of vaccum, atleast at the start, i plan on boosting it down the road. Just wondering if an early 80'd booster and 93 cobra MC would fit/work, or if i would have to consider some other sort of set up.

Thanks for the input, ive got time since i have to buy a new daily driver first, just trying to put the pieces together in my head for now.

MustangBradley

I just read an article in Modified Mustangs about them using a late 90's Cobra MC with 4 discs on a late 60's mustang build. It was unboosted. It is much easier to stop a light weight first gen mustang with a small block than a Fox with a big block. Try it out and if it fails to provide enough stopping power, you can add a Hydro-Boost assist.

AdderMk2

could always try a hydroboost conversion...

power brakes, no vac issues from larger cams... and less space taken up in the engine bay

ponyboy88

dont know much (if anything) about hydroboost. Isnt that what the later (03-04) cobra's used? it runs off the power steering pump?

Any info or maybe pointing me in the direction for a write up on a hyrdoboost swap appreciated.

Thanks
NA

AdderMk2

ever heard of google?

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=hydro...2ac4760832f3c4

67mustang302

Manual brakes are fine if it's set up correctly. MANY race cars are manual only. It's a simple hydraulic system, so it comes down to selecting the right bore/stroke master cylinder to match the required piston area in the calipers with the volume. A manual system with easy pedal effort will just require you to push the pedal farther to move the volume you need, but will have easy pedal effort. Also how hard you have to press the pedal is heavily dependent on the pad compound you run, a higher Cf pad requires less pressure to generate the same friction as a low Cf pad.

There's a bunch of ways to skin this cat between manual or power, so it's up to what you want. Personally, I prefer a well thought out manual setup since it has less components.

One thing you will need to do with the "front end as heavy as the Great Wall of China" is use stiffer suspension, otherwise when you brake the weight over the front end and the weight transfer will cause the car to nose over and make the front brakes do almost all the work....ie, you'll hardly be using the back brakes and the car won't brake as well.