OK, first off I completely rebuilt my 5.0, only old parts I used off my old motor were the heads and intakes. Had the heads remilled and covered to stud bolts, and yes I used all the proper gaskets for the install. New spark plugs (NGK copper), new distributer cap, and new ignition coil, new clutch, new flywheel.. Did all the work at home including pulling the old motor and installing the new one.

Why was the motor swapped?
Completely blew the old motor with the supercharger. Blown head gaskets, blown rear seal, blown freeze plugs, it was dead to say the least.




Here's what's happening:

Car starts right up but imidiately after starting up it's running rough. Best way to describe it is you can clearly see the engine shaking (approx 1/4") from side to side and it's very noticible when grabbing the shifter. In drive it's not as bad, but is still there. Doesn't ride as smooth as it should I guess is the best way to put it.

Idle irradically. When I put my timing light on the motor and used the digital tach it shows the idel varring between as low as 640 rpms to as high as 880 with an average of around 740.

When in neutral no lights.

When in drive check engine light comes on, but goes off and stays off when engine is turned off.

Smoke coming out the exhaust, smells of gas.

Gas can be smelled under the engine bay. The type of gas smell you get from running too rich.

Only driven the car a small distance and can't tell if I have a radiator leak but if I leave the car idling for around 30 minutes the radiator fluid will back up into the over flow tank. I've never had it over flow yet, but it gets near the top of the tank and stops. The fluid does return back to the radiator though. Never seen any signs of leakage, but I'm suspecting one.




What I've done:

Rechecked all of the connections, everything ignition wise and vacuum line wise is on tight and sealed.

Sprayed the entire engine over with carburator fluid to see if I could get a jump in idle to test for leaks and I have none. At first I did have one or two but fixed them.



I will take the car to a professional mechanic in a month or two, however I want to know if there are any other areas I can check on my own or if there is something I'm possibly over looking, or even if the car is safe to drive the 10 mile trip to a mechanic?

 

***** UPDATE *****
Found a coolant leak at the timing chain or water pump, can't tell exactly where. So that narrows that down. Any other advice would be appreciated.

 

koer test!!

 

Id start by testing all my plugs. But maby thje carb needs to be adjusted. Could be getting to much fuel and wanting to choke out.

 

it's efi my friend!!

 

Hahaha....my grandmother comes out and says "it's running rich, you need to adjust the carb" ...... after I told her 20 million times its electronic fuel injected ROFL!!!


I think I'm gonna sell the car to my friend. I'm getting married and building a house soon anyways, don't really have much time for the car, and if I want another 5.0 I'll buy a new one that doesn't have so many problems as this one has had.

 

Ohhhh didn't realize!

 

Try taking the belt off to see if the idles clears up. GM and Ford Alternators are bad to get out of align by being bumped or even tightened down.

 

Whens the last time it had a full tune up (plugs, wires, cap and rotor, fuel filter)? Did you check the timing?

 

Read my original post 02, I just completely rebuilt the engine as well as the rest of the car.