CLUE

Hi I'm wondering if my thermostat housing has a bleed valve? (1991 GT 5.0) I've been looking all over the net and can't find anything, don't have a manual yet. I saw 2 things on the thermostat housing that look like they might be bleed valves, one beside the 2 bolts that hold the housing on, and one on the top of the housing? Are one of these the bleed valve, or is there none? I've been having some issues I think are coolant related, just finished doing a rad flush and changed the thermostat and rad cap, now I want to make sure I'm bleeding the system the best possible way, incase there's air in there. If there isn't a bleeder I was just going to park on a hill and take the cap off and run it for a while while topping off, but I want to know if there's an actual bleed valve on there, or else the best possible way to do it on my car.

mjr46

no, and please don't create duplicate threads, other thread deleted. thank you.

mustangGT86_05

the way you said is how you bleed the stangs, trust me having to use bleed valves SUCKS. They are only installed if there is a point in the system higher than the cap. Just leave it off, run it til the thermostat opens (normally the level will suddenly drop drastically) top it off, close it up and you should be fine

CLUE

Thanks, I'll use the hill trick. Got an interview tomorrow that's far away and I needed to find out quick, don't want to be stranded on the highway. I'm going to try it right now and then I'll take it for a cruise.

Tony71502

Being on a hill isn't really a trick. You can bleed the air out on flat land. Ford didn't use a hill to bleed out their millions of cars/trucks sold.

mustangGT86_05

Every once in a while I use a hill just to help provoke the air to move, but its not necessary

CLUE

Well i purged the coolant system today, I used this video for reference:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU
It went well, must of had a good pocket of air in there somewhere, because a lot came up, next time I'll use a bigger better funnel though (A 2 litre with the bottom cut off taped onto the rad neckhole wasn't quite enough to catch it all, I didn't think that much would come up, anyways I got most of it and cleaned up the rest. I took it for a drive after and the low coolant light came on again at first, I thought it was a bum sensor in the resevoir before, but after going to the store to pick up some more coolant just incase, I started it back up and it didn't come back on, in fact it seemed to be running good, with no unwanted lights coming on, or anything. I'm happy because I have a job interview tomorrow and their office is 60km away, so I was worried I'd miss it because of my car issues. Sorry about the extra post mjr, I just wanted an answer fast for this particular subject (how to properly bleed these stangs) and I got it, usually I'm not in such a huge hurry for an answer. I will delete this post if I can, or you can, I posted the vid on my other post as well, to share with others. Thanks everyone, I will keep my eye on the temp gauge tomorrow and hopefully the car handles the drive well and hopefully I'll get the job too!