Duncan_GT

Thats what I thought too. I wonder why it stopped moving then. I'm pretty sure the keys are on correctly

GT Katie

Agree with Dawson, there's no such thing as a "harmonic balancer hammer" (not even a dead blow/soft blow hammer) but a lot of first time installers use one when they don't have the install tool. Summit should be stabbed with a rusty knife for putting that in their instructions. X3 it doesn't look like it's on all the way unless this one is an inch longer than the original. Easiest way to check it now is to look at your belt alignment. Use your belt or a string. It looks so far out that this should be obvious with an alignment check. This one is still so far out that a woodruff key wouldn't be enough spacing. This would have to be a 1" bolt stuck behind there to be so far out :-) Since you think your keys are still in place, get the install tool & proceed pulling it on. Drop it in gear (or park if an automatic) & set the E brake so the crankshaft doesn't rotate. For future refrence, there's no such thing as a "Cam Hammer" either, no matter what Summit might say ha ha..

**edit** Is that a "fluid damper"? If so then using a hammer isn't so bad because they work on a different principle. They don't have an elastomer strip between the balancer hub & the outer ring.

dawson1112

I would take it back off and check the key . You may know it was in before you started but ive seen those woodruff keys rock forward and get jammed up in the keyway and crank slot. aslo if the key is jammed and you put the install tool on it your gonna do some kind of damage.... Some times a bit of emery cloth on the crank snout will help the balancer to go on.

Duncan_GT

No its elastomer. I just got done talking with Summit. My original one measured 6.3"~, the one they recommended was 6.6", obviously the clearance issue. I'm returning it to get one that is 6.4", I'll have plenty of clearance especially since I filed the bottom of the water pump.

And I'm for sure getting the tool this time around.

GT Katie

Ok, glad you got it sorted out with Summit. When you get the new one do as Dawson says in post 14. Emery cloth or sandpaper (final 400 grit) any nicks or scratches on the crank or inside the balancer or on the keys. A light coat of oil on both surfaces will help in a smooth install too

*edit* lol.. I meant post 13

tinman

That balancer IS NOT close to being right.
When you have it off, use some silver 'anti-sieze' paste on the crank (just a little) to ease the installation.
No, there has never been a hammer made to install balancers with......

Duncan_GT

Do you recommend heating it up? Summit's instructions said to boil it (I looked at it funny for a sec) so the hub would expand.

Only reason I used the hammer (I see the fault now) is because I didnt have the installation tool. I was glancing over another thread and a majority of them said to use a soft hammer, as did the instructions that came w the balancer. This is my first engine build, I'm still learning. Lol

dawson1112

Lol summit really said to boil it? From now on I think if you get any more parts through summit you should probly just toss the instructions.
Ok maybe in a perfect situation like engine on a stand with a new balancer and a new crank , with the crank snout on the low side of the machining tolerance and the balencer ID on the high side . You could probly get it on with a hammer.
As for boiling it I cant really believe summit would even go there lol. Just goes to show the amount of knowlege that goes into there products.
Im glad you decided to just get the installer tool this time around ,,, trust me you will be happy that you did,,,

Duncan_GT

Well, it is on a stand, and its a brand new crank and balancer.

Ill post a pic later today of the instructions lol

89fiveeight

on my 351 I don't have any more than 1/4" between the timing cover and flywheel. Go to advance and rent the tool. It's $99 bucks and you get all your money back when you bring the tool back.