Need help
#1
Need help
After installing a cobra intake manifold on my stock 1993 SSP coupe and installed a 65mm TB the car turns on fine and runs fine for less then a minute and then shuts off checked for vacuum leaks and checked the timing and ignition coil and have no clue what the issue is since it doesn't idle ruff or back fire
#2
No CEL codes? I would start there first. Does it just shut off and die? Will it stay running if you rev the engine a bit or push the throttle in when it tries to die? Or does it kinda chug/stumble over itself and die? I would think that perhaps the computers parameters needs to be reset due to the addition of additional airflow? Maybe a bad intake gasket... I dunno, I would then start out by disconnecting the battery and touch the negative and positive connectors together to reset the computer and try to start it again. Otherwise, its totally possible you forgot to plug something back in, like the idle air control valve or something easy. Look for loose/unplugged connectors, hoses, or broken vacuum lines...
#4
Im guessing it has something to do with the idle setting. Did you do the idle relearn procedure after all the changes ? I would bet it idles up to about 1000 rpm or so then after it runs for a bit it idles down so far it dies.
This is copied form another page some where off the web. I took the information that pertains to your 93
How to Properly Set You Mustang's Idle
This is information on how to set your idle rpm. This covers year models 1986-1993, and 1994-1995. This information is from various sources, like my experience, AFM, the Ford Fuel Injection Book, other site members experiences.
Note if you have an auto trans then you need to set the idle with the car in drive.
Note if you insist on using the idle control ON with the PMS, then you need to go into the PMS and set the idle control ON before setting the idle rpm. Also, you should set the air bypass to 66%, the idle rpm in the pms to 700rpm (the lowest), and the idle timing to +15* as preliminary settings, before actually setting the idle rpm at the throttle body. These are suggestions, each car will vary.
'86-'93
1. The car must be at operating temps. If you can't keep it idling, drive it until it reaches full water temp.
2. Turn ON the headlights.
3. Turn OFF any accessories, like a/c, heater, defrost.
4. Unplug the IAC connector. The IAC is the small cylinder attached to the throttle body.
Note: If you unplug the IAC and the engine stalls, then you know the idle rpm was probably too low. Leave everything as is, just open-up the throttle screw a bunch so that the engine can breathe while you set the idle rpm. Restart the car, and continue with #5 below:
5. Adjust the throttle stop screw until you have the idle rpm you desire.
6. Plug the IAC connector back in.
7. Recheck the TPS voltage, since you may have changed the throttle blade position.
Make sure the TPS is right
The TPS is another issue. Generally, you want to try and get it as close to 0.97-0.98 at idle as possible. Make sure that when you open the throttle all the way it hits 4.60 volts. Now, with the advent of the 04 PMS, you can "fudge" with those numbers. If you cannot get the TPS to read under 1.00, for example, you can set the PMS to tell the EEC it is seeing idle at 1.01. You should always try to get the idle reading below 0.99, but if you cannot, then this feature is really useful. The same is true for WOT, you can use the TPS option in the PMS to set the WOT tps voltage. Say you cannot get it to read 4.6, or you want earlier WOT tuning to take effect. Then you can set the WOT to say, 4.0 volts at 30% error. There are more detailed threads on this.
This is copied form another page some where off the web. I took the information that pertains to your 93
How to Properly Set You Mustang's Idle
This is information on how to set your idle rpm. This covers year models 1986-1993, and 1994-1995. This information is from various sources, like my experience, AFM, the Ford Fuel Injection Book, other site members experiences.
Note if you have an auto trans then you need to set the idle with the car in drive.
Note if you insist on using the idle control ON with the PMS, then you need to go into the PMS and set the idle control ON before setting the idle rpm. Also, you should set the air bypass to 66%, the idle rpm in the pms to 700rpm (the lowest), and the idle timing to +15* as preliminary settings, before actually setting the idle rpm at the throttle body. These are suggestions, each car will vary.
'86-'93
1. The car must be at operating temps. If you can't keep it idling, drive it until it reaches full water temp.
2. Turn ON the headlights.
3. Turn OFF any accessories, like a/c, heater, defrost.
4. Unplug the IAC connector. The IAC is the small cylinder attached to the throttle body.
Note: If you unplug the IAC and the engine stalls, then you know the idle rpm was probably too low. Leave everything as is, just open-up the throttle screw a bunch so that the engine can breathe while you set the idle rpm. Restart the car, and continue with #5 below:
5. Adjust the throttle stop screw until you have the idle rpm you desire.
6. Plug the IAC connector back in.
7. Recheck the TPS voltage, since you may have changed the throttle blade position.
Make sure the TPS is right
The TPS is another issue. Generally, you want to try and get it as close to 0.97-0.98 at idle as possible. Make sure that when you open the throttle all the way it hits 4.60 volts. Now, with the advent of the 04 PMS, you can "fudge" with those numbers. If you cannot get the TPS to read under 1.00, for example, you can set the PMS to tell the EEC it is seeing idle at 1.01. You should always try to get the idle reading below 0.99, but if you cannot, then this feature is really useful. The same is true for WOT, you can use the TPS option in the PMS to set the WOT tps voltage. Say you cannot get it to read 4.6, or you want earlier WOT tuning to take effect. Then you can set the WOT to say, 4.0 volts at 30% error. There are more detailed threads on this.