also as previously mentioned pull the plugs and do a visual plug/cylinder inspection.. or do a compression test if you have acess to one ( sometimes free rental at parts store)... as previously mentioned overheating can cause head problems... such as a warped head, you might have no/ low compression once your car heats up bit, causing it to not be able to run.. (although im guessing this doesnt happen as much with the iron 5.0 heads). hopefully this isnt it.. but it does happen and its free to check.

ill let others tell me if im a moron with this statement : could also try keeping it running on starting fluid.. wear goggles and be CAREFULL for backfires/ or flames ... but if it stays runnning this way you know you got a fuel issue.. which it could be , ive seen similar stuff wehre youll build pressure pre start and then once running you cant build enough fuel pressue to keep the engine running.

Oh ok ill check and see that, thanks for the help guys ill keep yall updated

I have seen that, but only with a mechanical fuel pump, still might be worth a try.

ok so i pulled some codes right before going to work i think i did it the right way, i used a paper like wire that was copper, for the test thing i know i jumped it right i had a picture of the diagram, so i opened the ignition the cel lit up weirdly, stopped then i guess lit the codes which blinked twice following eachother then stopped one second then blinked once stopped for more seconds blinked two more times and following that was 4 blinks so im guessing its 21 and 24? It repeated it self then stopped for about 7-10 seconds blinked once, some more seconds and if i did the first codes correct it gave me 66, 87, and 96, i would have to check the plugs after work or tomorrow but hope those codes gives someone an idea, thanks guys

If your reading them right, codes 87 and 96 are the killers. Primary and secondary fuel pump circuit failure. I'd throw a fuel pressure gauge on and verify that your loosing fuel pressure or even if you have enough. You should have around 36 - 38 lbs of pressure when fuel pump is on. Then start chasing the wiring. Verify fuel pump relay, intertia switch in hatch. Those all should be OK if you heard the fuel pump run, but just check for loose wiring/connections. You never know what your going to find once you start digging around.

Code 66 is for the MAF sensor, low voltage, that might be a problem also, but fuel is top priority right now.

Codes 21 and 24 are sensors that are out of range. But they won't cause a no start.

Just for future reference, https://www.2carpros.com/articles/fo...-and-retrieval

So it might be wiring? It was running fine before? What do you think happened now that wiring is bad?

Could be wiring, bad connection somewhere, could be bad fuel pump, rust in the tank, clogged filter etc. Best bet is to follow 88's advice, check the pressure and volume near the injectors. This will tell you for sure if you have a fuel problem. If you have weak pressure, at least you know what you need to start chasing down.
If it's low, get your meter and check the voltage at the fuel pump. If you have 12V at the pump, check the pressure there or before the filter.

So fuel pressure is good, my friend he has a performance shop, i finally got in touch with him, he went to check it out and said its my head gaskets.

Let me know what yall think

Did he do a compression test?