Waferboy

Well, I asked a couple weeks back if I should worry... We'll, I've done a bit more research and watching the pressure I'm effectively at 2psi when idle after some driving. So I'm gathering up the goods to do a rebuild.

So this will be a stock rebuild. I don't have tons of money to throw at this, so I'm looking for suggestions. After it's apart I'll know what's up for sure, but this car has GT40 heads, intake and an E303 cam, so this will be a bottom end rebuild. I understand things will likely need bored out and that will dictate the parts to order, but my general plan...

• Pull the engine
• Tear it down
• Off to the machine shop for a full cleaning... Anything else?
• New parts to be installed... Any bottom end kits that anyone suggests?
• Anything not in a kit that I should replace while I'm here?
• Any other comments/suggestions?

Thanks!

88 orangepeel notch

Should be a pretty basic rebiuld if your sticking with your old bolt ons. Are you doing the rebuild yourself or having a shop do it, besides the machining part of it ? A decent shop will have tips/advice on what they think should be done depending on your goals.

If you were happy with the power level before it should be a pretty straight forward rebiuld. And the cheapest..... BUT, now's the time if you want to up the fun meter lol. All depends on ones bank account ....

Keep us posted

Waferboy

This is a rebuild by me. Planning on stripping it down to the block and then taking the block to a machine shop for cleaning but not positive what else (guess I'll ask).

From that I'll be ordering bearings, pistons, etc since I'll know just what is left of the block. Hopefully I don't need a new block...

Waferboy

This is a rebuild by me. Planning on stripping it down to the block and then taking the block to a machine shop for cleaning but not positive what else (guess I'll ask).

From that I'll be ordering bearings, pistons, etc since I'll know just what is left of the block. Hopefully I don't need a new block...

347mav

I'd throw a good windage tray at it just for safe measure.

mongolchuck

The machinist should check cylinder bores, cam bearing bores and crank main bearing supports for symmetry and roundness. If your staying with the same crank and rods send those in too to get them matched. Hold off on buying anything yet in case he has to bore the cylinders, unless you're already planning on that.

95slowbrah

If you get anything new in the rotating assembly, like pistons or rods, its always a good idea to get them rebalanced too. Cheap to do and keeps premature wear down on internals and bearings. Best of luck!

jthorn9

Not sure of your planes with the top end, but it would be a good idea to have your heads cleaned up and probably have the valves/seals replaced as well as resurfacing to ensure a nice solid seal with the head gasket. Sometimes heads can warp ever so slightly upon removal which can cause extreme headaches later. It doesn't cost much at all to have this safety measure done.