1990mustanggt

Ok here is the list of things I have in my 347 at this time.

Hawks 347 3.4 28oz nodular crank, 28oz flywheel, 28 oz Pioneer balancer
Keith Black flat top .030 pistons with valve relief
Trick Flow twisted wedge heads 61 cc 2.02/1.60 ported and polished
Trick Flow stage one camshaft 2500-6500 rpm 221/225 @050 499/510

My question is should I replace the camshaft with this:
Trick Flow 3500-7000 rpm 236/248 @050 574/595
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=KeywordSearch

Link to my heads (ported and polished)
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=KeywordSearch

Link to the intake setup (Ported and polished)
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=KeywordSearch

link to RR
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=KeywordSearch


The timing chain has been replaced with a timing gear set up by Comp Cams.


[IMG]local://upfiles/10184/85A8A96511E148BDADD564A3528DC402.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/10184/5E1458C928D04EF393AFE2FE0ECA18CE.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/10184/D29F51C6C2104B648093AEE705792097.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/10184/2D33CD68125F46FCA5E14079DA2EFBFF.jpg[/IMG]

angcobra

That is quite a healthy cam. I think the drivability might be tough, according to where the lift starts and stops, you might have an issue with vacuum.
my 347 cam has less lift and duration than the one you are thinking of and the timing of the cam makes a huge difference in the vacuum. You will also want to check the piston valve clearance.

1990mustanggt

I'm not that worried about driveability. It will be a weekend and track only car. Plus I'm thinking about buying a vaccum box for it. I'm just worried about the valve clearance, like you said.

88BlueGT

The car is going to be a beast no matter what and the Trick Flow 3500-7000 rpm 236/248 @050 574/595 is going to be good for the track but you will suffer w/ low end torque. If its STRICTLY a track car and nothing else run the Trick Flow 574/595 but if you are going to drive it on the street at all I would stay with the first one. Its a neck snapping cam.

1990mustanggt

I do plan to drive it on the street from time to time, but not very often. I just want a super fast car, so if it would be better to leave the cam that's in it, then that's what I might do. My only two goals for the car is to pull the wheels on take off and break into the 11's if possible.

1990mustanggt

Hey vfast. What whould you suggest I do? I would hate to buy the cam and then it be to big for the valve clearance. Like I said, it will be driven on the street from time to time.

vfast

well since your going to tear it down..have the pistons fly cut...that cam 542-563 I like as I use them in alot of cars..that's what's in my s/c car..you really don't need a cam with a 3500-7000 rpm range.....something in the 2500-6500. I have several use low mile cams here

1990mustanggt

Thanks for the great info vfast.

vfast

you should paint the lifter valley for the oil to return to the pan a lil faster

95whitecobra

That is the same combo I will using. Let us now how it dyno's. I'll be using the stage 1 cam and a ported cobra intake. Also what is the difference twisted wedge part TFS 51400004 and TFS 51400002? The first has 1.460 springs, 10* locks and costs $1205.95. The 002 has 1.470 springs, 7* locks, and costs $1150.95. Whhich one should I get? both are non-o-ringed.