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5.0L (1979-1995) MustangTechnical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.
Need help with the car. Here is what happened. I took the car out for a spin, only drive it weekends. Car ran great. Came back to the house and left it running a minute or two while the wifey asked me a question. Came back out and the car started stumbling and died. I managed to get it running enough to pop the clutch and roll it into the garage. Here is what I checked:
1. Pulled the coil wire at the distributor and put a screwdriver in the boot. Used a test light to test for spark; nice ark, so I figured it's not spark.
2. Next I opened the ignition 4 times and released pressure on the shrader valve; fuel came out so I figured fuel was ok.
3. I assumed it was the TFI module, so i replaced it. I've had the car for 12 years and the TFI module looked like the OEM one.
Car has 109K on the odometer. It's supercharged. Has two fuel pumps (255 in tank walbro & the inline vortec t-rex pump).
After the TFI module switch now the car still cranks, but makes NO ATTEMP to start. It actually back fires every so often. Please help....advice??
Update to all, got the car started. It was a bad TFI module. The other issue was when I pulled the distributor up to change out the module I took the car out of timing. Oh well, it all worked out and I even changed out the plugs which were somewhat fouled up. Car is back up and running great.
Its good to hear you got it running.
For future reference,if you still have the oem block & distributor in place,there should be marks present on those parts for a visual timing reference.
Explanation= when your engine was
assembled at the factory,the Ford engine builder used a hammer & chisel to make score marks in the block/distributor housing,to indicate the oem 10° base timing setting.So if you ever tear into the engine enough to require distributor removal or you remove the distributor for any other reason, just rotate the crank CW
until compression is felt at the #1 cylinder spark plug hole then rotate it a tiny bit more until the 0° (tdc) balancer mark is perfectly aligned with the timing pointer.Then drop the distributor in the block so that the rotor is pointed at the #1 plug position on the distributor cap
(hint: the rotor should be pointed between the front two,upper to lower,intake bolts if the distributor is installed correctly, like shown in pic 2 below) with the distributor fully seated in the block.Once the distributor/rotor is in this position,rotate it until its score mark is aligned with the block score mark and you'll have timing set at the correct oem 10° position.The purpose of these marks is,of course,
so you don't have to use a timing light everytime you remove the distributor from the block or move the distributor from the 10° position.
If these score marks arent present,make your own,& if they are/are not present and you prefer having timing set at 12-14° instead,make new marks with a hammer & chisel.
If you're standing in front of the car looking down at the balancer,the timing marks look like this:
⬇
Pass Side 10 ' ' ' ' 0 ' ' ' ' 10 Driver Side
After the distributor is dropped in the block and you rotate the crank to set timing at 10° btdc,the 10° mark on the right side of the 0° mark is the one you need to align with the timing pointer,not the 10° mark on
the left side.
The 1st picture shows which direction the rotor should be pointing towards when the 0° balancer mark is aligned with the timing pointer & the 2nd picture shows the oem score marks for the 10° initial timing
settisideD
E
Last edited by wbrockstar; 07-05-2018 at 01:40 AM.
Reason: Added Timing Marks For Visual Reference
Good to hear you got it running.
For future reference,if you still have the oem block & distributor in place,there should be marks present on those parts for timing reference.
Explanation= when your engine was
assembled,the Ford engine builder used a hammer/chisel & made score marks in the block/distributor housing,to indicate the oem 10° base timing setting.So if you ever tear into the engine or remove the distributor for any reason, just rotate the crank
til compression is felt at the #1 cylinder spark plug hole then rotate it a tiny bit more until the 0° (tdc) balancer mark is perfectly aligned with the timing pointer.Then drop the distributor in the block so that the rotor is pointed at the #1 plug position on the distributor cap (the rotor should be pointed between the front two,upper to lower,intake bolts if the distributor is installed correctly, like shown in pic 2 below) with the distributor fully seated in the block. Once the distributor/rotor is in this position,rotate it until its score mark is aligned with the block score mark and you'll have timing set at the correct oem 10° position.The purpose of the marks is,of course,
so you don't have to use a timing light everytime you remove the distributor from the block or move the distributor from the 10° position.
If these score marks arent present,make your own,& if they are/are not present and you prefer having timing set at 12-14° instead,
make new marks with a hammer & chisel.
The 1st picture shows which direction the rotor should be pointing towards when the 0° balancer mark is aligned with the timing pointer & the 2nd picture shows the oem score marks for the 10° initial timing
setting.
06-25-2018, 09:20 PM
Car cranks but won't start...help
