good motor build......
#1
good motor build......
well i've decided to keep my car since my dad said he'd help me rebuild it. It will need to be rebuilt fairly soon, and i was wondering if anyone knew a good motor build that would make decent horsepower while still passing california emissions.
#4
306-310
i recomend the same thing.... i have freinds who have dumped big bucks in both 331's and 347's... theres one freidn in our little group who had all the internals forged had it blueprinted and balanced came out to be 310 (60 over and 10:1 compression), it has AFR 185's , Eldo performer 2 intake, 1.6 rockers, 24lb injectors, E303 cam, full exhaust, pulleys, mac air intake, 65mm BBK throttle body and a 60 shot of N20 plus a custom burnt diablo chip... that right there is our hottest running motor.. the 331 and 347 have both 350 to the ground but have Cobra intakes and Gt-40 heads but the 310 dynoed at 370 to the wheels and with nos had 410 to the ground.... THATS A ****ING HOT MOTOR... and he has had it 25,000 miles and hasnt had any problems and has had the bottle refilled 4 times..... i say that one... if you take off the N20 its like 2600 he has in the motor... EBAY is the best source for parts imaginable...
Stalion
Stalion
#9
RE: 306-310
here what I propose
1. use the stock piston unless the block needs bored,if it does go .20 over..as you need the pistons in to get the right bore,also you need to know what ring your using,to keep cost down use a chrome moly ring but I would use the gapless kind so you can set your gaps closer for better oil control and compression.
2. have the block squared.,new cam bearing,and have it alinge checked
3. use a set of afr 165's emmission legals.have these match ported to your intake for smoother flow which help make horsepower. have the springs set to your cam spec
4. a dual pattern cam would be nice but most don't pass smog so I guess a b-cam
5. a set of 1.7's should pass emmission
6. paint the lifter valley to help with quicker oil return to the pan
7. using roade lifters help with emmissions due to their bleed off design to help keep lift down at idle
8. you a 65mm t/b and a 73 c/l maf
9 make sure you use a higher flow pcv valve for a cleaner engine
10 when going to a emmission check up..put your timing at 6
11. a tweecer so you can lean it out when you need the test
1. use the stock piston unless the block needs bored,if it does go .20 over..as you need the pistons in to get the right bore,also you need to know what ring your using,to keep cost down use a chrome moly ring but I would use the gapless kind so you can set your gaps closer for better oil control and compression.
2. have the block squared.,new cam bearing,and have it alinge checked
3. use a set of afr 165's emmission legals.have these match ported to your intake for smoother flow which help make horsepower. have the springs set to your cam spec
4. a dual pattern cam would be nice but most don't pass smog so I guess a b-cam
5. a set of 1.7's should pass emmission
6. paint the lifter valley to help with quicker oil return to the pan
7. using roade lifters help with emmissions due to their bleed off design to help keep lift down at idle
8. you a 65mm t/b and a 73 c/l maf
9 make sure you use a higher flow pcv valve for a cleaner engine
10 when going to a emmission check up..put your timing at 6
11. a tweecer so you can lean it out when you need the test
#10
RE: 306-310
so you suggest just using the stock intake, should I have it ported and polished? Also where do you suggest I get these parts from or where do you suggest is best. Those heads are like 1300 dollars. I figured I would get some 94 cobra GT40 heads for 400 bucks, probably get them ported and polished, and put them on there. Get a E303 cam, and probably the 94 cobra intake manifold.