347 Block Clearance
#1
347 Block Clearance
I can get this sweet deal on a fresh 302 block 30 over ready to be built and a scat 347 stroker kit with SRP pistons al balanced with a flexplate and damper. The only thing is that the block isn't clearanced for the rods. I read some articles with pictures of what the bottom of the cylinders need to look like for them to clear. I've also seen the gauges on ebay that it looks like you bolt them to the block or oil pan rails and keep grinding til it fits flush. I was wondering if anyone has done this? The articles say that all tah is needed s a die grinder. So what are we talking here?
[IMG]local://upfiles/1992/A6946ED9204C44C4BA5DDD4FF139A390.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/1992/A6946ED9204C44C4BA5DDD4FF139A390.jpg[/IMG]
#2
RE: 347 Block Clearance
I dunno, personally I wouldn't mess with my block like that. Sure it could turn out fine, and yeah there's a good chance that it'll turn out okay... but what if your grinder slips and knicks the cylinder wall? Any machine shop should be able to do that cheap, as it's not very challenging work. But still, if you try it yourself and knick the cylinder wall or go too far or anything like that, you're in for at least a new hone, maybe a rebore, and possibly need a new block.
#4
RE: 347 Block Clearance
If you can build the motor then you can clearance the block if you got a die grinder and a carbide cutter I did one for a guy I did a 347 for. I put the crank in the motor and put 1 piston at a time in it and turned the motor over slowly till the rod bolt hit then I would take the piston back out or turn it out of the way if I could and would grind the block then turn it again and kept doing this till it cleared then I would take some extra off to make sure if and when things start to flex that it don't hit and I would do this for every cylinder till it was done. I also had to do My long rod 306 the same way. Make sure to clen the motor very well after you are done.
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