5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

cam help

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Old 01-30-2006, 09:41 PM
  #21  
Tims 88GT
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Default RE: cam help

thats a good cam that would work well with trick flow tw heads.
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:49 PM
  #22  
cammedlx
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Default RE: cam help

Have the exhaust hump removed is not stock...and your a moron any AOD fox could run them times with tire,suspension and a 200 shot..with a bone stock motor...so what's your point..and i stand firm on my theroy that a cam in a stock headed motor is stupid.
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Old 01-30-2006, 10:29 PM
  #23  
89gtracer
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Default RE: cam help

i said i wanted to put the cam on with gt40p heads, and intake. i wanted to know if it would do any good w/o changing the heads and intake. im having a hard time finding gt40 parts around here. is a good shifter off e-bay?http://cgi.ebay.com/SHORT-SHIFTER-FO...QQcmdZViewItem or is the pro 5.0alot better?
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Old 01-30-2006, 10:35 PM
  #24  
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Default RE: cam help

You are showing your inexperience. Not only is it not common for a car to drop 1.6 seconds on a 150 shot, but it even harder when the car is running quicker than stock. Now you're saying a 200 shot, but that is not what I was using in my point. I clearly stated I was on the brakes on the 200hp pass. By the 1/8 mile times, it was ~11.3 pass. There was also no suspension work done to the car. Yes, removing the exhaust bump is not stock. I did point that out. But if removing the exhaust bump is all that's needed to scrap your theory than I'd say you're reaching at best. I have no times on my new GT, but it will easily be a 12 sec N/A car and it still has the stock heads (and they really are stock) on a stock shortblock. I doubt I could do it as easily with a stock cam. But you stick with your theory. You are the reason I have less competition.


BTW, It's "you're a moron," moron.
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Old 01-30-2006, 10:44 PM
  #25  
cammedlx
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Default RE: cam help

And i would be more then happy to drag you're "better" silly little *** any time you want..And my theory is correct with every proof or evidence i have ever seen or found...So if you find more proof other then your typing then i will change my concept of stock heads with a aftermarket bumpstick..Until then i really don't need to hear your BS..Because if anyone is showing inexperience its you because i've runned almost every set up know to man so i talk from experience unlike other people..So don't question me and please if you have nothing better to do other then question my grammer get offline and save your so called intelegence.
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Old 01-30-2006, 11:01 PM
  #26  
marx91
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Default RE: cam help

i would never put a cam in a stock motor, those stock parts are bottle necking
the engine, alot of times that will hurt you more than help you, i've seen it
more than once
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Old 01-30-2006, 11:05 PM
  #27  
Tims 88GT
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Default RE: cam help

yep most of the time it will hurt, in my case it helped a lil bit
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Old 01-30-2006, 11:06 PM
  #28  
cammedlx
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Default RE: cam help

Some people you just can't talk too..but he's a very intellegent guy..enough to question me but still yet run a cam with stock e7's.[>:]
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Old 01-30-2006, 11:11 PM
  #29  
Tims 88GT
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Default RE: cam help

im with you, ok yes i know i bought a cam and i still have stock heads at the time i did not have money for heads and i still dont but it is there so when i do heads i will not have to take the cam out. now if i did it again i would of left the stock cam and and put 1.7rrs on it and wate untill i got the money for heads and cam, now i may of ganed 15hp at max but i can feel a lot more tq than stock, also i dont think taking the time and spending the money on the gt 40p heads is worth it.
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Old 01-30-2006, 11:26 PM
  #30  
wildcobrar
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Default RE: cam help

I agree with stangpower96 and a few others one here with where you are going to and coming from with your statements. I know there are better cams out there than the FRPP stuff and I know that there is plenty of power left in these little 5.0's with the stock cam! I have an 88 5.0 I bought brand new and still have it today. I got the bug and did a few bolt ons. Under drives, BBK long tubes, and BBK H pipe, 3.73, FRPP 1.7 rockers and the themactor bump removed from the exhaust port roof. It still has the original mufflers and tail pipes that came on the car! I also did the 20 minute tune up, timing and silencer removed but the intake and T body are stock and the short block has never been touched. I have run a best of 13.2 @ 100 with ET street tires and stock suspension and this is a speed density car. I know it is not screaming fast but it is fun.

As for cams! I had a client that was bent on getting the F cam! He removed the B cam he had(not very good cam either) and the car lost 2 tenths on motor over the B cam. He had dart heads at the time. Anyway, the reason he lost power and et is because the F cam is a cam that is set up for forced induction. There are better cams to choose from and if you know where you are going with your motor(future mods) by parts that will allow you to grow. The stock cam a 1.7 rockers are the way to go. On another note, another client went with an E cam and 1.7 FRPP rockers with stock E7 heads and man was the piston to valve clearance close with that set up on a stock block. Be carefull what you look for in duration & lift because you may get into a world of broken parts! I am no wizard, but I believe you can do more with less!(stock cam) and then when the budget is there, go for broke.
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