Keith5.0

this isnt relevant to your problem but how long did it take to install the top end kit?

Tims 88GT

if you hear the fuel pump come on, but are not getting gas i say your out of gas it sounds dumb but it happend to me. so check and make sure you have gas in the car lol

WhidbeyStang

The car will run if I keep my foot on the gas. It runs and sounds strong at 1500 to 1800 rpm. We had to keep it up there for the cam break in. As soon as you lift off it wll die immediatly. I am going to recheck the inertia switch and the relay under the seat. And then just start working down the list of possibilties. Any other suggestions will be appreciated. As far as how long it took, we have spent probably 3 weekends off and on. My car had alot of miles and was completely stock so we would always seem to run into a problem right after the parts store would close. Keep in mind also that you will definitely need at least 10 bags of Doritos and dip. And couple cases of Coors Light ( you can substitute other brand). Also a pile of band aids.

WhidbeyStang

A couple pics of motor. At least it looks good.

WhidbeyStang

I will try this again.

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[IMG]local://upfiles/19769/D783D31241A04BEC8853C10EB67E9A3D.jpg[/IMG]

grabbem88

atleast i'm not the only one without heat..

stanglx2002

wildcobrar

Just curious, did you get the PCV valve seated into its home properly? On the underside of the upper plenumn they tend to have extra vacumn ports. Are all these connected and the ones not being used blocked off? If your car will run @1500 or more but die when you let off you don't have a fuel problem in my opinion. It is a vacumn issue or the car's pcm is not liking the new mods and needs to relearn the engines new airflow cababilities. Also if you have bumped up the heads/intake/cam, did you bump up to 24 lb or better injectors with a matching mas air meter calibrated for the size of injectors you are running? If so, get your fuel pressure set to about 38 psi after you cycle the key on and off a few times to get the pump to prime the system a few times and get a ball park reading. After I did an upgrade to 24 lv injectors, AFR 185, cam, intake and shorties, I had to hold the car at 1500 rpm, and ever so slightly let the throttle back and hold it for a while and repeated this method until I got the thing to go to a roll idle. Then I just fine tuned the idle screw at the throttle body until it idled aroung 900 rpm like an above member had stated earlier. The car also needed lots of driving because for quite some time, even after I did all this, it would start and stall after a run somewhere and a shutdown to get fuel or what ever. It eventually found itself as the pcm began to relearn the new set up. Just make sure you have no vacumn leaks first! Or you will chase ghosts forever. This was an experience I had with a car I tricked out and it may be what you are experiencing too.

WhidbeyStang

The problem I am having is no fuel presure showing on the gauge. I took the day off from it today. I am going to troubleshoot tomorrow. I am sure I will get it figured out. It will just take forever, or at least will seem like it. After spending 3 grand doing this Trickflow kit I wanna hear lumpy idle. I do have new 24 lb inj with new MAF cal to 24's

SAKONNA

I had problem way back with my idle screw on the throttle body. I upgraded to a 65mm and the thing wouldnt hold an idle.....I gave it a couple turns and she smoothed right out.....Good Luck!!