Why so slow?
#12
RE: Why so slow?
I am sure a tune would help. But with your mph, your car has the speed to be in low 13's. Your 60' needs a lot of work, you had to be spinning. On my old fox that was stock, i was running 2.2 - 2.3 60's and time was 14.2-14.3 @ 96 mph and that was with no susp. and cooper street tires. You just need to practice, with that mph your times will def. improve.
#13
RE: Why so slow?
ORIGINAL: mattdel
that cam is WAY to big for 165cc heads. wowza.
whats the duration?
that cam is WAY to big for 165cc heads. wowza.
whats the duration?
Spec sheet:
#14
RE: Why so slow?
ORIGINAL: PJB
I took my car to the track for the first time this year and the first time with my new setup last night and was highly disappointed.
It ran a best of 14.3 at 101 on drag radials.
I was expecting mid 13's or better.
Here's the setup:
Engine/Exhaust Modifications:
-AFR 165 heads with upgraded springs
-Harland Sharp 1.6 roller rockers
-Flowtech Induction custom ground Comp Cams camshaft
-Edelbrock Performer upper and lower intake manifolds
-MAC 70mm throttle body
-BBK Fenderwell Cold air intake
-Ford Racing valve covers
-Ford Racing shorty chrome headers
-Flowmaster catback exhaust with Force II mufflers
-Taylor 8.2mm ignition wires
-ProForm underdrive pullies on waterpump and crank
-overdriven alternator (used stock 75 amp pulley on 130 amp alternator)
-MSD ignition cap, rotor and coil
-130 amp alternator from a '95 Mustang GT
-BBK offroad X pipe
-Ford Racing 24 lb/hour fuel injectors
-Granatelli MAF sensor calibrated for 24 lb injectors
-smog pump delete
-160* thermostat
Transmission/Drivetrain Modifications:
-B&M Hammer shifter
-Ford Racing 4.10 gears
-aluminum driveshaft
-B&M transmission cooler
-ACC Boss Hog 2800-3200 stall converter
-B&M Transpak shift kit
Suspension/Brake/Wheel & Tire Modifications:
-aftermarket rear upper and lower control arms
-KYB GR2 rear shocks
-KYB GR2 front struts
-rear 5 lug swap using Ford Ranger axles and drums
-front 5 lug conversion using '94 Mustang front spindles and calipers
-SMR torque box reinforcements (welded and bolted in)
-drilled and slotted front rotors with Bosch brake pads
-Hankook K106 tires on 2003 v6 Mustang 16" wheels
-255/60 Mickey Thompson ET Streets drag radials on 15" v6 Mustang wheels for the track
-Kenny Brown subframe connector
Shouldnt this setup be good for better than what it ran?
I took my car to the track for the first time this year and the first time with my new setup last night and was highly disappointed.
It ran a best of 14.3 at 101 on drag radials.
I was expecting mid 13's or better.
Here's the setup:
Engine/Exhaust Modifications:
-AFR 165 heads with upgraded springs
-Harland Sharp 1.6 roller rockers
-Flowtech Induction custom ground Comp Cams camshaft
-Edelbrock Performer upper and lower intake manifolds
-MAC 70mm throttle body
-BBK Fenderwell Cold air intake
-Ford Racing valve covers
-Ford Racing shorty chrome headers
-Flowmaster catback exhaust with Force II mufflers
-Taylor 8.2mm ignition wires
-ProForm underdrive pullies on waterpump and crank
-overdriven alternator (used stock 75 amp pulley on 130 amp alternator)
-MSD ignition cap, rotor and coil
-130 amp alternator from a '95 Mustang GT
-BBK offroad X pipe
-Ford Racing 24 lb/hour fuel injectors
-Granatelli MAF sensor calibrated for 24 lb injectors
-smog pump delete
-160* thermostat
Transmission/Drivetrain Modifications:
-B&M Hammer shifter
-Ford Racing 4.10 gears
-aluminum driveshaft
-B&M transmission cooler
-ACC Boss Hog 2800-3200 stall converter
-B&M Transpak shift kit
Suspension/Brake/Wheel & Tire Modifications:
-aftermarket rear upper and lower control arms
-KYB GR2 rear shocks
-KYB GR2 front struts
-rear 5 lug swap using Ford Ranger axles and drums
-front 5 lug conversion using '94 Mustang front spindles and calipers
-SMR torque box reinforcements (welded and bolted in)
-drilled and slotted front rotors with Bosch brake pads
-Hankook K106 tires on 2003 v6 Mustang 16" wheels
-255/60 Mickey Thompson ET Streets drag radials on 15" v6 Mustang wheels for the track
-Kenny Brown subframe connector
Shouldnt this setup be good for better than what it ran?
#1- 60 ft times are very important when reading your time slip because for every tenth,hundreth,or thousandth that you are off on your 60 ft time will translate into twice that at the 1/4 mile trap given you are running the same through out the whole run. for example when i ran 12.80 my 60 ft was 1.7, so to translate your time with a 60 ft time of 2.4 you are 7 tenths slower to 60 ft which translates at the 1/4 mile trap as 14 tenths which = 1.4 seconds. given that 12.80 + 1.4 = 14.20
#2- if thats the case you ask why did you run a 14.32, well the first time you ran in od and let the car shift on its own and given that it shifted below 6000 rpm with the holley intake you probably lost a little bit of your peak in midrange or on bottom end because you didnt send it to its peak power producing rpm. you ask then why maybe ran slower shifting out yourself, well the holley intakes are bad about reaching low end peak quickly and given this, you prolly shifted too late on bottom end. im running a 3 speed manual shift body c-4 and i have to shift out of 1st at 5000 rpm because after that its turning dead rpms which = nothing more than revs. in 2nd i shift out at 6300 rpm because anything higher its dead rpm. if i shift out at 6300 in 1st my 1/4 mile trap is 2 tenths slower than shifting at 5,000.
i run a 3.73 gear and your running a 4.10, you may be reaching your peak alot quicker and the only way to find out what the peak is to go put it on a dyno and find out where each gear stops producing piower and shift about 200 rpm before that mark. then go run it and see what your times are. or if you dont have the money then try shifting diffrent in 1st gear. compare the 2 tickets you ran already and tell me what the diffrence in the 60 foot times were and i can tell you more or better yet post them on here so i can see them and i will tell you where you lost your time at.
#15
RE: Why so slow?
ORIGINAL: iceman89gt
ok, heres a little drag racing knowledge for you that will help you understand your slow times.
#1- 60 ft times are very important when reading your time slip because for every tenth,hundreth,or thousandth that you are off on your 60 ft time will translate into twice that at the 1/4 mile trap given you are running the same through out the whole run. for example when i ran 12.80 my 60 ft was 1.7, so to translate your time with a 60 ft time of 2.4 you are 7 tenths slower to 60 ft which translates at the 1/4 mile trap as 14 tenths which = 1.4 seconds. given that 12.80 + 1.4 = 14.20
#2- if thats the case you ask why did you run a 14.32, well the first time you ran in od and let the car shift on its own and given that it shifted below 6000 rpm with the holley intake you probably lost a little bit of your peak in midrange or on bottom end because you didnt send it to its peak power producing rpm. you ask then why maybe ran slower shifting out yourself, well the holley intakes are bad about reaching low end peak quickly and given this, you prolly shifted too late on bottom end. im running a 3 speed manual shift body c-4 and i have to shift out of 1st at 5000 rpm because after that its turning dead rpms which = nothing more than revs. in 2nd i shift out at 6300 rpm because anything higher its dead rpm. if i shift out at 6300 in 1st my 1/4 mile trap is 2 tenths slower than shifting at 5,000.
i run a 3.73 gear and your running a 4.10, you may be reaching your peak alot quicker and the only way to find out what the peak is to go put it on a dyno and find out where each gear stops producing piower and shift about 200 rpm before that mark. then go run it and see what your times are. or if you dont have the money then try shifting diffrent in 1st gear. compare the 2 tickets you ran already and tell me what the diffrence in the 60 foot times were and i can tell you more or better yet post them on here so i can see them and i will tell you where you lost your time at.
ORIGINAL: PJB
I took my car to the track for the first time this year and the first time with my new setup last night and was highly disappointed.
It ran a best of 14.3 at 101 on drag radials.
I was expecting mid 13's or better.
Here's the setup:
Engine/Exhaust Modifications:
-AFR 165 heads with upgraded springs
-Harland Sharp 1.6 roller rockers
-Flowtech Induction custom ground Comp Cams camshaft
-Edelbrock Performer upper and lower intake manifolds
-MAC 70mm throttle body
-BBK Fenderwell Cold air intake
-Ford Racing valve covers
-Ford Racing shorty chrome headers
-Flowmaster catback exhaust with Force II mufflers
-Taylor 8.2mm ignition wires
-ProForm underdrive pullies on waterpump and crank
-overdriven alternator (used stock 75 amp pulley on 130 amp alternator)
-MSD ignition cap, rotor and coil
-130 amp alternator from a '95 Mustang GT
-BBK offroad X pipe
-Ford Racing 24 lb/hour fuel injectors
-Granatelli MAF sensor calibrated for 24 lb injectors
-smog pump delete
-160* thermostat
Transmission/Drivetrain Modifications:
-B&M Hammer shifter
-Ford Racing 4.10 gears
-aluminum driveshaft
-B&M transmission cooler
-ACC Boss Hog 2800-3200 stall converter
-B&M Transpak shift kit
Suspension/Brake/Wheel & Tire Modifications:
-aftermarket rear upper and lower control arms
-KYB GR2 rear shocks
-KYB GR2 front struts
-rear 5 lug swap using Ford Ranger axles and drums
-front 5 lug conversion using '94 Mustang front spindles and calipers
-SMR torque box reinforcements (welded and bolted in)
-drilled and slotted front rotors with Bosch brake pads
-Hankook K106 tires on 2003 v6 Mustang 16" wheels
-255/60 Mickey Thompson ET Streets drag radials on 15" v6 Mustang wheels for the track
-Kenny Brown subframe connector
Shouldnt this setup be good for better than what it ran?
I took my car to the track for the first time this year and the first time with my new setup last night and was highly disappointed.
It ran a best of 14.3 at 101 on drag radials.
I was expecting mid 13's or better.
Here's the setup:
Engine/Exhaust Modifications:
-AFR 165 heads with upgraded springs
-Harland Sharp 1.6 roller rockers
-Flowtech Induction custom ground Comp Cams camshaft
-Edelbrock Performer upper and lower intake manifolds
-MAC 70mm throttle body
-BBK Fenderwell Cold air intake
-Ford Racing valve covers
-Ford Racing shorty chrome headers
-Flowmaster catback exhaust with Force II mufflers
-Taylor 8.2mm ignition wires
-ProForm underdrive pullies on waterpump and crank
-overdriven alternator (used stock 75 amp pulley on 130 amp alternator)
-MSD ignition cap, rotor and coil
-130 amp alternator from a '95 Mustang GT
-BBK offroad X pipe
-Ford Racing 24 lb/hour fuel injectors
-Granatelli MAF sensor calibrated for 24 lb injectors
-smog pump delete
-160* thermostat
Transmission/Drivetrain Modifications:
-B&M Hammer shifter
-Ford Racing 4.10 gears
-aluminum driveshaft
-B&M transmission cooler
-ACC Boss Hog 2800-3200 stall converter
-B&M Transpak shift kit
Suspension/Brake/Wheel & Tire Modifications:
-aftermarket rear upper and lower control arms
-KYB GR2 rear shocks
-KYB GR2 front struts
-rear 5 lug swap using Ford Ranger axles and drums
-front 5 lug conversion using '94 Mustang front spindles and calipers
-SMR torque box reinforcements (welded and bolted in)
-drilled and slotted front rotors with Bosch brake pads
-Hankook K106 tires on 2003 v6 Mustang 16" wheels
-255/60 Mickey Thompson ET Streets drag radials on 15" v6 Mustang wheels for the track
-Kenny Brown subframe connector
Shouldnt this setup be good for better than what it ran?
#1- 60 ft times are very important when reading your time slip because for every tenth,hundreth,or thousandth that you are off on your 60 ft time will translate into twice that at the 1/4 mile trap given you are running the same through out the whole run. for example when i ran 12.80 my 60 ft was 1.7, so to translate your time with a 60 ft time of 2.4 you are 7 tenths slower to 60 ft which translates at the 1/4 mile trap as 14 tenths which = 1.4 seconds. given that 12.80 + 1.4 = 14.20
#2- if thats the case you ask why did you run a 14.32, well the first time you ran in od and let the car shift on its own and given that it shifted below 6000 rpm with the holley intake you probably lost a little bit of your peak in midrange or on bottom end because you didnt send it to its peak power producing rpm. you ask then why maybe ran slower shifting out yourself, well the holley intakes are bad about reaching low end peak quickly and given this, you prolly shifted too late on bottom end. im running a 3 speed manual shift body c-4 and i have to shift out of 1st at 5000 rpm because after that its turning dead rpms which = nothing more than revs. in 2nd i shift out at 6300 rpm because anything higher its dead rpm. if i shift out at 6300 in 1st my 1/4 mile trap is 2 tenths slower than shifting at 5,000.
i run a 3.73 gear and your running a 4.10, you may be reaching your peak alot quicker and the only way to find out what the peak is to go put it on a dyno and find out where each gear stops producing piower and shift about 200 rpm before that mark. then go run it and see what your times are. or if you dont have the money then try shifting diffrent in 1st gear. compare the 2 tickets you ran already and tell me what the diffrence in the 60 foot times were and i can tell you more or better yet post them on here so i can see them and i will tell you where you lost your time at.
#16
RE: Why so slow?
That 60' is ridiculous, somehting is wayyy off there. That is where i would start looking. obviously it isn't your tires either. On all stock suspension i managed a 2.1 60 through an AOD, and i thought that was bad
#17
RE: Why so slow?
thats a good idea tm, i appreciate the compliment, there is a reason why some guys are drivers and others are just in the pitcrew. hell if it was easy as driving down the track everyone would be doing it.
#18
RE: Why so slow?
I want to find out in the near future if I am worthy of driving or just being in the pit crew. I have never been down the track myself, all I do is practice from stop lights and stop signs on how to get the best take off with the least amount of wheel spin.
#20
RE: Why so slow?
I agree with ice, the 60' will make you or break you. Work on your launch and you will see improvements. Just remember, on test and tune nights, reactions time has nothing to do with your ET, so take your time and pay attention to how your car reacts. I was cutting 1.9 60' on street tires, so you can definitly get them down there. Are you auto or manual and what is your gearing in the rear?