Everyone I know is telling me that I can't make 400rwhp andbreak into the 10's with my current engine combo. Everyone at the track with N/A 302's are going 11.5s to 12.0s. I want to be the only guy at the track in the 10s with an N/A 302. I just want a 10 second timeslip so I can prove them wrong. Do you think my engine/suspension combo is capible of 10s. If not what do I need to do to get there?

92 mustang Lx thats weighs 3050lbs w/me in it.

ENGINE:
306ci stock block with 12.0.1 compression
AFR 185cc heads (Intake lightly "touched up" andmatched to a fel-pro #1262 gasket/ exhaust matched to a fel-pro #1415 gasket)
Trickflow "Box" Intake (port matched to heads)
Lunati 51018 hydro roller cam (242/ 252 duration @0.050, 600/620 lift, 110 LSA, 3000-7000rpm
75mm TB
C&L 76mm MAF
Hooker Super-Comp 1 3/4" headers (port matched to heads)

SUSPENSION:
Stock K-Member
Stock Front Control Arms w/UPR Spherical Bushings
4cyl. Front Springs
Stock Rear Springs
Lakewood 90/10 front drag struts
Lakewood 50/50 Rear Shocks
UPR Pro-Series Adjustable Upper & Lower Control Arms
UPR Full-Length Subframe Connectors
Art Morrison 8pt. Roll cage

OTHER:
G-Force T5 Tranny (2.94 1st gear)
4.33 gears
28x10.5 MT ET Dtag Slicks

 

And who or what are you using to tune it??? it has the possibility to be close to your goal

 

I don't have a handhelp tuning device like the accel, or anderson PMS.

I'm open for suggestions on good places to get it tuned. Somewhere near pennsylvania would be nice.

 

I hope you arent running the stock rods. A good tune will help, but you're going to be spinning it pretty high. Isn't the stock rev limiter set at 6200rpm or so? You're going to need to change that, you'll be sninng close to 7k.

 

Is there any good tuning places near Pennsylvania or New Jersey area ?

 

you can use this to search http://www.smokemup.com/utils/dynosearch.php

then give the dyno a call and talk to the tuner

 

You are going to need some more gear. With 28" tall tires I would guess a 4.88 or maybe a 5.13. Are you using an 8.8" or 9"? It is very possible with some good driving and a weight with driver of 3100 pounds or less. I'm sure you already have the parts but in future rebuilds I would put a solid roller in there for that much rpm.

 

i would put a tubular k and tubular arms to get you race weight under 3000lb and got with the 5.13 gears and if your a good driver you will be close

 

i am sure this has been tried before.. you can probably save yourself alot of money and just look around on the internet to see if anyone has done it yet.

 

My first hatches 11.54 N/A slip was good enough for me with road race suspension and a 4.10, ran on the track ONCE and got booted off for no cage. If you dip into the 10.99 range you are going to have tech guys on you about a cage which obvoisly = more wieght. My current project is a bone stock hatch and its funny because my soon to buy parts list looks similar to my old recipts and your current mod list lol....