Sythetic oil on 91 5.0 with 106k miles
10-27-2007, 12:48 AM
#11
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,016
RE: Sythetic oil on 91 5.0 with 106k miles
ORIGINAL: jhall01
lol. valvoline is better and you know it. lol
ORIGINAL: cleanfitty
[:@]
ORIGINAL: jhall01
Valvoline is better! lol
Valvoline is better! lol
lol. valvoline is better and you know it. lol
I have ran it a very long time ago with horrible results. It is known they have some of the weakest additives and building blocks or whatever the proper terminolgy is. ( www.bobistheoilguy.com)
I use Pennzoil 10-30 in the stang and Motorcraft 5-30 in the ranger.
EDIT--- Ok.. I noticed that you run the Valvoline "Racing" oil which has a higher ZPPD content that is good for lowering wear. So I think your ok...
Are you running any cats??
10-27-2007, 12:53 AM
#12
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,016
RE: Sythetic oil on 91 5.0 with 106k miles
ORIGINAL: OnyxCobra
My dad runs synthetic oil in his van with 200k on the clock, the thing runs awesome and burns zero oil.
My dad runs synthetic oil in his van with 200k on the clock, the thing runs awesome and burns zero oil.
If you take a 16 year old stang with some miles on it, with the fantastic rear main seal they have, and you run syn 5-20 on it, I'm purdy sure the results won't be good.
I would defenetly stick to conventional oil...
10-27-2007, 12:56 AM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 360
RE: Sythetic oil on 91 5.0 with 106k miles
ORIGINAL: cleanfitty
I think the Valvolinemay bethe issue with your track times... Its so abrasive either running Valvoline oil or finely crushed rocks would yeild the same results... You could prolly take a second off your times just by switching the oil out with something good...
I have ran it a very long time ago with horrible results. It is known they have some of the weakest additives and building blocks or whatever the proper terminolgy is. ( www.bobistheoilguy.com)
I use Pennzoil 10-30 in the stang and Motorcraft 5-30 in the ranger.
ORIGINAL: jhall01
lol. valvoline is better and you know it. lol
ORIGINAL: cleanfitty
[:@]
well i dont know bout all that but whatever dude. whatever blows ur dress up lol. i wish that was why my track times are slow lol. that would be one cheap way to fix it.
ORIGINAL: jhall01
Valvoline is better! lol
Valvoline is better! lol
well i dont know bout all that but whatever dude. whatever blows ur dress up lol. i wish that was why my track times are slow lol. that would be one cheap way to fix it.
lol. valvoline is better and you know it. lol
I have ran it a very long time ago with horrible results. It is known they have some of the weakest additives and building blocks or whatever the proper terminolgy is. ( www.bobistheoilguy.com)
I use Pennzoil 10-30 in the stang and Motorcraft 5-30 in the ranger.
10-27-2007, 12:58 AM
#14
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 360
RE: Sythetic oil on 91 5.0 with 106k miles
well i dont know bout all that but whatever dude. whatever blows ur dress up lol. i wish that was why my track times are slow lol. that would be one cheap way to fix it.
10-27-2007, 01:05 AM
#15
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,016
RE: Sythetic oil on 91 5.0 with 106k miles
ORIGINAL: jhall01
well i dont know bout all that but whatever dude. whatever blows ur dress up lol. i wish that was why my track times are slow lol. that would be one cheap way to fix it.
well i dont know bout all that but whatever dude. whatever blows ur dress up lol. i wish that was why my track times are slow lol. that would be one cheap way to fix it.
10-27-2007, 01:09 AM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 360
RE: Sythetic oil on 91 5.0 with 106k miles
ORIGINAL: cleanfitty
Sorry, my bad again, I noticed that you run the Valvoline Racing oil which is better with a much higher ZDDP content (zinc). ZDDP is a very good for fighting wear, but it can (and will) damage cats if you are running them. Thats why all the new SM rated oils got rid of the ZDDP and are using moly as a substitute and I personally think ZDDP is better.
ORIGINAL: jhall01
well i dont know bout all that but whatever dude. whatever blows ur dress up lol. i wish that was why my track times are slow lol. that would be one cheap way to fix it.
well i dont know bout all that but whatever dude. whatever blows ur dress up lol. i wish that was why my track times are slow lol. that would be one cheap way to fix it.
no cats on this car lol. i dont have to worry bout any kind of emission test around here. see valvoline is better. lmao
10-27-2007, 08:13 AM
#20
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location:
Posts: 20
RE: Sythetic oil on 91 5.0 with 106k miles
I was working at Jiffy Lube with my buddy Jake(Stage2 I think his name is) but hands down from what went through our shop Mobil 1 was the best. Most all Full Synthetic oils are good for your Stang. Just stay away from Penzoil thats all.
Here is the low down...
Group 1: This is the least processed however will cary the most additive. Many true full synthetics (Group 4, 5, or mix of 4 & 5) will use Group 1 oil to carry the additive package.
Group 2: A large step up in refinitement and performance from Group 1. Group 2 is the majority percentage of oil used in most "dino" (aka conventional) oils today. Group 2 oils can also be used to carry the add pack.
Group 2+: This is an unofficial title for oils that have been refined past Group 2 typical properties, yet don't quite hit Group 3 properties.
Group 3: Legally in the US, formulated blends that contain a high amount (I'm guessing, but probably in the 85% or even high range) of this Group by be called Fully Synthetic. In Europe however, this is not the case. Oil refined to Group 3 status possess many characterists of Group 4 and 5 oils. Castrol Syntec is a good example of a Group 3 lube (this would exclude the proven Group 4 & 5 blend that makes up the infamous "German Castrol", aka Castrol Syntec 0W-30 ((found only at AutoZone, if they still have it, it's being clearanced out))).
Group 4: This group of oils is an actual synthesized, which is where the "synthetic" comes from, oil made to deliver the properties the refiner developed the oil to have. Mobil-1 has long been thought to be a majority PAO (which is Group 4) oil, however somewhat recent posting by someone in the know with the ability to test and more importantly read the results found that wasn't the case. The properties of Group 4 oils however don't lend themselves to carrying the add packs needed for modern lubes, see Group 1.
Group 5: Again, this is a synthesized lube like Group 4 oils. Redline brand oils and esters fall into this category. Same deal with Group 4 regarding the add packs, I believe even Group 5 oils need a Group 1 or 2 oil to carry the add pack, just like Group 4 do.
Add Packs: Whichever lubricant you use today, for whatever purpose (in your vehicle here folks, get you minds out of the gutters), will have an add pack. The add pack is simply the additive pack. It's the additives added to the base oil that let that oil + add pack combination perform as the lubrication engineers desire. Lubrizoil is a good example of a company that doesn't market and end result oil, but rather develops add packs that companies like Castrol, Valvoline, Pennzoil, etc. use with base oils. This also lets companies like Castrol, Valvoline, etc. that don't have their own refineries and purchase their oil, get their base oil, use a known add pack, and get that API certified. They can then continue to use that base oil from that refiner and if needed (for whatever reason), switch to another refiner and not have to get API certified again, as the base oil + add pack combo performance is known.
Viscosity: This is an often misunderstood area by many. There are monograde oils that have no 0W-whatever in their spec, they are simply one grade at 100C, and flow however they will flow when cold. The most common monograde by far is SAE30, aka HD-30, aka "straight 30". SAE30 is a very robust oil, however it's cold flow properties leave much to be desired. This is where multigrade oils come in.
Multigrade oils have Pour Point Depressants (PPD's) and Viscosity Index Improvers (VII's) added to them so as to increase their cold flow characterists, among other things. Common multigrade oils are 0W-20, 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 5W-40, and 15W-40. The number before the W represents the cold flow spec that blended oil meets, and the number after the W represents how that blended oil performs at 100 degress C (the standard point of measurement for a "hot" oil). Because of their characteristics, this is where synthetics are very beneficial, as they can both flow very well when cold, and also protect very well when hot - a desirable combination for many of us in the colder climates.
Viscosity Ranges: This is another commonly misunderstood spec, so I'd thought I'd explain it for those not in the know. Basically, the number after the W for multigrades, or the number on the bottle for monogrades, is not how thick that oil will be at 100C (full and normal operating engine temp). It designates where that oils 100C viscosity falls into the SAE viscosity grades. Simply, the actual 100C viscosity of an oil is measured in centistokes, or cSt. Where that value falls determines what number after the W that oil gets. I could keep blabbing, but the following viscosity chart at BITOG shows what I'm try to say better than I ever could: Viscosity Chart at BITOG . This is why when people say "Mobil-1 xW-30 is too thin", they are FOS. Looking at Mobil's spec page for Mobil-1 xW-30, Mobil themselves show a mid-30 weight for those lubes. Virgin Oil Analysis (VOA's) sent in by myself and others to Blackstone Labs (and others) confirm this. In fact, most conventional 5W-30 and 10W-30's are thinner than Mobil-1 xW-30's. It is true that past Mobil-1 xW-30's were on the 10.xx cSt side of the scale, when many conventional xW-30's were on the high 10.xx cSt or 11.xx cSt, however, that is not the case now and hasn't been for probably a year.
What oil is "The Best": There is no answer to this. The end.
For normal driving (this means no short trips, not extended idling, no drag racing every stoplight, no coolant contamination from some coolant leak, no abnormal dirt ingestion from unfiltered air coming from somewhere, etc) in a properly working modern engine that calls for a 5W-30 or 10W-30, any conventional 5W-30 will work fine for a minimum of 3,000, and in most cases, 5,000 miles*. For extended drains past 5,000 miles, such as 7,500 miles, this is where the synthetics start coming into their own. The same is true for engines calling for 5W-20 (many Ford's and Honda's)...any 5W-20 will work fine for these engines*.
Also, when it gets down towards 0C and lower, synthetics by their nature help here.
*: Keep in mind that some engines, VW's, BMW's, MB's, Porshe's, higher performance American engines or engines in vehicles equiped with Oil Life Monitors (OLM's), not all 5W-30's are created equally. Ensure that the oil you are using carries the proper specs that the manufacturer has written in the manual, else you may be using an oil not up to par for your engine.
I'll cut this crazy long post off here now, I think if you're not asleep by now, maybe some of what I've posted helps you out...my fingers sure hope so!
Here is the low down...
Group 1: This is the least processed however will cary the most additive. Many true full synthetics (Group 4, 5, or mix of 4 & 5) will use Group 1 oil to carry the additive package.
Group 2: A large step up in refinitement and performance from Group 1. Group 2 is the majority percentage of oil used in most "dino" (aka conventional) oils today. Group 2 oils can also be used to carry the add pack.
Group 2+: This is an unofficial title for oils that have been refined past Group 2 typical properties, yet don't quite hit Group 3 properties.
Group 3: Legally in the US, formulated blends that contain a high amount (I'm guessing, but probably in the 85% or even high range) of this Group by be called Fully Synthetic. In Europe however, this is not the case. Oil refined to Group 3 status possess many characterists of Group 4 and 5 oils. Castrol Syntec is a good example of a Group 3 lube (this would exclude the proven Group 4 & 5 blend that makes up the infamous "German Castrol", aka Castrol Syntec 0W-30 ((found only at AutoZone, if they still have it, it's being clearanced out))).
Group 4: This group of oils is an actual synthesized, which is where the "synthetic" comes from, oil made to deliver the properties the refiner developed the oil to have. Mobil-1 has long been thought to be a majority PAO (which is Group 4) oil, however somewhat recent posting by someone in the know with the ability to test and more importantly read the results found that wasn't the case. The properties of Group 4 oils however don't lend themselves to carrying the add packs needed for modern lubes, see Group 1.
Group 5: Again, this is a synthesized lube like Group 4 oils. Redline brand oils and esters fall into this category. Same deal with Group 4 regarding the add packs, I believe even Group 5 oils need a Group 1 or 2 oil to carry the add pack, just like Group 4 do.
Add Packs: Whichever lubricant you use today, for whatever purpose (in your vehicle here folks, get you minds out of the gutters), will have an add pack. The add pack is simply the additive pack. It's the additives added to the base oil that let that oil + add pack combination perform as the lubrication engineers desire. Lubrizoil is a good example of a company that doesn't market and end result oil, but rather develops add packs that companies like Castrol, Valvoline, Pennzoil, etc. use with base oils. This also lets companies like Castrol, Valvoline, etc. that don't have their own refineries and purchase their oil, get their base oil, use a known add pack, and get that API certified. They can then continue to use that base oil from that refiner and if needed (for whatever reason), switch to another refiner and not have to get API certified again, as the base oil + add pack combo performance is known.
Viscosity: This is an often misunderstood area by many. There are monograde oils that have no 0W-whatever in their spec, they are simply one grade at 100C, and flow however they will flow when cold. The most common monograde by far is SAE30, aka HD-30, aka "straight 30". SAE30 is a very robust oil, however it's cold flow properties leave much to be desired. This is where multigrade oils come in.
Multigrade oils have Pour Point Depressants (PPD's) and Viscosity Index Improvers (VII's) added to them so as to increase their cold flow characterists, among other things. Common multigrade oils are 0W-20, 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 5W-40, and 15W-40. The number before the W represents the cold flow spec that blended oil meets, and the number after the W represents how that blended oil performs at 100 degress C (the standard point of measurement for a "hot" oil). Because of their characteristics, this is where synthetics are very beneficial, as they can both flow very well when cold, and also protect very well when hot - a desirable combination for many of us in the colder climates.
Viscosity Ranges: This is another commonly misunderstood spec, so I'd thought I'd explain it for those not in the know. Basically, the number after the W for multigrades, or the number on the bottle for monogrades, is not how thick that oil will be at 100C (full and normal operating engine temp). It designates where that oils 100C viscosity falls into the SAE viscosity grades. Simply, the actual 100C viscosity of an oil is measured in centistokes, or cSt. Where that value falls determines what number after the W that oil gets. I could keep blabbing, but the following viscosity chart at BITOG shows what I'm try to say better than I ever could: Viscosity Chart at BITOG . This is why when people say "Mobil-1 xW-30 is too thin", they are FOS. Looking at Mobil's spec page for Mobil-1 xW-30, Mobil themselves show a mid-30 weight for those lubes. Virgin Oil Analysis (VOA's) sent in by myself and others to Blackstone Labs (and others) confirm this. In fact, most conventional 5W-30 and 10W-30's are thinner than Mobil-1 xW-30's. It is true that past Mobil-1 xW-30's were on the 10.xx cSt side of the scale, when many conventional xW-30's were on the high 10.xx cSt or 11.xx cSt, however, that is not the case now and hasn't been for probably a year.
What oil is "The Best": There is no answer to this. The end.
For normal driving (this means no short trips, not extended idling, no drag racing every stoplight, no coolant contamination from some coolant leak, no abnormal dirt ingestion from unfiltered air coming from somewhere, etc) in a properly working modern engine that calls for a 5W-30 or 10W-30, any conventional 5W-30 will work fine for a minimum of 3,000, and in most cases, 5,000 miles*. For extended drains past 5,000 miles, such as 7,500 miles, this is where the synthetics start coming into their own. The same is true for engines calling for 5W-20 (many Ford's and Honda's)...any 5W-20 will work fine for these engines*.
Also, when it gets down towards 0C and lower, synthetics by their nature help here.
*: Keep in mind that some engines, VW's, BMW's, MB's, Porshe's, higher performance American engines or engines in vehicles equiped with Oil Life Monitors (OLM's), not all 5W-30's are created equally. Ensure that the oil you are using carries the proper specs that the manufacturer has written in the manual, else you may be using an oil not up to par for your engine.
I'll cut this crazy long post off here now, I think if you're not asleep by now, maybe some of what I've posted helps you out...my fingers sure hope so!