i like em shaved
02-10-2009, 11:32 AM
#1
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Manchester, MA
Posts: 808
i like em shaved
i need any and all shaved engine bay pics, preferably fox's but sn95 is ok. i'm sick of looking at swiss cheese sheet metal surrounding a clean, dressed up engine
-thanks guys
-thanks guys
02-10-2009, 04:09 PM
#2
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: nw ohio
Posts: 1,556
02-11-2009, 11:33 AM
#4
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Manchester, MA
Posts: 808
is it difficult to weld that sheet metal or is it just a matter of being patient? Also I was thinking of capping off the top of the frame rail and making my own swaybar mounts. I was given a set of billet aluminum Steeda sn95 swaybar brackets that look pretty cool so i'd like to use those
02-13-2009, 11:24 AM
#5
4th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Calif
Posts: 1,926
I had never welded before I did my engine bay but a good friend of mine had done some welding before an he gave me a 20 min crash course on welding, this is what I did not to say it's right or wrong is just what I did and it worked for me.
Patience is the key so I found out!
I converted a Lincoln electric welder into a gas MIG welder so that I didn’t burn thru the thin inner fenders that easily. For any hole larger than the size of a dime I made a metal backing plate and welded it in place rather than trying to bridge the hole with more welding passes.
Once I had everything welded up I then ground down the welds, and once I had all the welds ground down I then applied a thin coat of all-metal body filler and then sand down the all-metal. I then applied another thin coat of the all-metal body filler making sure I had all the holes filled this time, then sanded the all-metal again making sure it was smooth and flat the way I wanted it. My next thing to do was prime the engine bay with primer let that dry and then sand the primer to make certain everything looked good, smooth and flat and then I use a product called Evercoat to fill in really small pin holes that I could see before I painted my engine bay. The final thing was to tack rag the engine bay and paint.
My best guess would be welding 4+ hrs, grinding down the welds 1hr, body filler and sanding 3 times 6-7 hrs, evercoat and paint 4 hrs, prep and misc 3 hrs.
I’m not sure if this will help you or not but here is an old hosting site I once used and it has a few pictures of the general process of what I just talked about above.
http://www.netsnapshot.com/pcw/build...UNT=1924&KEY=3
Patience is the key so I found out!
I converted a Lincoln electric welder into a gas MIG welder so that I didn’t burn thru the thin inner fenders that easily. For any hole larger than the size of a dime I made a metal backing plate and welded it in place rather than trying to bridge the hole with more welding passes.
Once I had everything welded up I then ground down the welds, and once I had all the welds ground down I then applied a thin coat of all-metal body filler and then sand down the all-metal. I then applied another thin coat of the all-metal body filler making sure I had all the holes filled this time, then sanded the all-metal again making sure it was smooth and flat the way I wanted it. My next thing to do was prime the engine bay with primer let that dry and then sand the primer to make certain everything looked good, smooth and flat and then I use a product called Evercoat to fill in really small pin holes that I could see before I painted my engine bay. The final thing was to tack rag the engine bay and paint.
My best guess would be welding 4+ hrs, grinding down the welds 1hr, body filler and sanding 3 times 6-7 hrs, evercoat and paint 4 hrs, prep and misc 3 hrs.
I’m not sure if this will help you or not but here is an old hosting site I once used and it has a few pictures of the general process of what I just talked about above.
http://www.netsnapshot.com/pcw/build...UNT=1924&KEY=3
02-13-2009, 11:33 AM
#6
4th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Calif
Posts: 1,926
