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Question About Rear Diff Cover.

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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 09:23 PM
  #11  
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Suppose I could just finger tighten them.

Something about studs pressing against bearings doesn't thrill me. I understand the purpose, but it seems if you mess something up you're screwed.
Old Mar 9, 2009 | 10:43 PM
  #12  
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if the rear end cover is plastic, it might just be intended for shipping purposes , kinda like when reman engines we get from jasper have a tag on the oil pan that says do not use in service/ replace with original pan
Old Mar 9, 2009 | 11:56 PM
  #13  
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So, how about just screwing them in until I feel contact then snugging the jam nuts ?
Old Mar 10, 2009 | 08:14 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Explosive
Alright, our rear end has the stock plastic cover, and it's cracked in like 4 places on the ears by the bolt heads. I'm guessing when the 3.73's were installed the guy over torqued the bolts and the plastic just couldn't handle it ?

So I'm looking at the Trick Flow cover,



See those brass/bronze colored studs ? I assume those are the support studs, what exactly are they and how do they work. I've installed rear diff covers, but never any performance one like the trick flow one, I know nothing about the studs, so please, educate me.

~Thanks a ton, I want to get this thing to the strip next month.
OK the thick aluminum cover serves a double purpose. When you put load on a rear end the applied torque is always trying to push the carrier out of the case. The bearing caps that hold the carrier in stop that from happening. Still under a heavy load you can get cap distortion and walk just like in the engine block when the differential case flexes. The thick aluminum case when bolted down serves as almost an integral part of the case itself. The load bolts in the case put a small amount of counterload on the caps but not enough to distort them. When you really throw a load on the rear the small amount of counter force in the center of the cap helps keep it stable and reduces and absorbs vibration that could snap the cap.
Old Mar 10, 2009 | 08:17 AM
  #15  
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So would tightening them until I feel them touch be ok ?

And the local speed shop told my dad some crap like, one person spins a wheel while another tightens the stud and you stop once you feel slight resistance ? wtf. I'd assume if it's creating drag it'd be too tight.
Old Mar 10, 2009 | 08:25 AM
  #16  
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double post.
Old Mar 10, 2009 | 08:58 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Explosive
So would tightening them until I feel them touch be ok ?

And the local speed shop told my dad some crap like, one person spins a wheel while another tightens the stud and you stop once you feel slight resistance ? wtf. I'd assume if it's creating drag it'd be too tight.
Hahahahahaha!!!!!!!!You would break the rear end cover loooooooooong before you ever felt any drag. You don't want to listen to that guy. You only need a max of 10ftlbs of torque on the load stud. Thats not much torque at all. If you don't have a torque wrench that goes that low just let the bolt hit the cap and give it about 1/8 turn. Before you run the load bolts down put a real light coat of rtv on the threads of the load bolts. If you don't oil will seep out down the threads. Snug the jam nuts down to 10ftlbs. A little less than you would tighten your spark plugs.
Old Mar 10, 2009 | 10:46 AM
  #18  
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If you are worried about your torque wrench being at spec, go to your local Costco tire center and ask if you can check your torque wrench on their machine. They test all of their torque wrenches every morning. Id assume other shops would do that as well, but I know Costco has a national standard for that.
Old Mar 10, 2009 | 01:30 PM
  #19  
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Ok so, tighten all the cover bolts, then put the studs until they touch, then torque the jam nuts to 10 ft lbs?

Will probably order this thing soon.
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