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Final solution than I give up

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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 04:21 PM
  #11  
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So thats what that is underneath the maf duct. I always wondered. Going to take that off too while im out there and have autozone test it. Hopefully they can and it's not too much to replace it.
Old Dec 16, 2009 | 06:50 PM
  #12  
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Take the TFI module out and take it to Autozone. They will test it for free. Also, the Hall Effects Sensor inside the dizzy can cause all sorts of problems(Learned it the hard way). Good luck.
Old Dec 16, 2009 | 07:10 PM
  #13  
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hmm, it appears it was the battery. Tested it at autozone and it passed, but said it was low on charge. They tried charging it but it wouldn't charge so I got a new one. Problem seems to have gone away. TFI was tested and was good. Would a bad battery really make the car stall out when running?
Old Dec 16, 2009 | 08:18 PM
  #14  
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Thats strange. My battery is new and it still does it.
Old Dec 16, 2009 | 09:35 PM
  #15  
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What leads you guys to believe this is the TFI module if it still fires?
Old Dec 16, 2009 | 11:18 PM
  #16  
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Because he said after it dies it takes forever for it to start back up. A symptom of a over heated TFI. Being a 94 I don't see it going out like that and if it was the TFI it would do it more spuratticaly not at the times he says it does.

Last edited by projectresto83; Dec 16, 2009 at 11:20 PM.
Old Dec 16, 2009 | 11:23 PM
  #17  
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I didn't catch the "forever" part. When mine dies at a stop sign it fires up but I have to give it gas and stabilize it by letting off the throttle slowly.
Old Dec 16, 2009 | 11:35 PM
  #18  
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^^ reset ur base idle correctly

-wait til the car is at operating temp
-unplug the iac ( you may need to play with the throttle til it idles on its own)
-adjust the idle screw to the proper rpm (slightly lower that you want)
-check the tps voltage
-shut the car off
-plug the iac back in
-start the car
-if idles in the right spot w/o surging or n e thing disconnect the battery for 30 min
-take it for a nice long drive
Old Dec 16, 2009 | 11:50 PM
  #19  
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Lets talk more about base idle reset. When the car is at normal operating temp it usually dies, especially when it is put into gear. Sometimes on startup the idle likes to surge, sometimes it doesn't. My tps is set at .87 right now. I have played a bit with the screw on the tb with no success. I have replaced the tps and iac.

I have deleted my egr spacer and run a delete plate. I think this has something to do with it. My car used to run VERY poor until I cut part of the gasket to release some of the egr gas into the tb, then it ran better, but still stalls when driving. Does this gas absoluetly have to escape to run right?
Old Dec 17, 2009 | 05:19 AM
  #20  
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your egr isnt hooked up anymore? I dont have mine hooked up either and mine runs perfectly fine now, so I doubt that's the problem.

I would try doing a base idle reset on the car first to get the idle right on it, if that's the problem. Does the needle jump up and down when idling? Mine did that before and I ended up replacing all vac lines and gaskets, now it runs beautiful. Drove it around all last night before work, and it drove fine to and from work and started right up. I think I am going to get a new starter though as it takes a minute for it to engage. It's old as hell anyways and should probably be replaced.

I also deleted my smog system (left the pump in tact, but disconnected).

Speaking of which, does anybody have the link or name of the plug you use to stop the car from throwing CEL for egr valve not being plugged in?



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