battery relocate
#1
battery relocate
i'm puttung my battery in the rear pass side of my hatch.i allso have a N20 bottle to mount.do anyof you have pics on were to put both.i chucked the crappy wood that went over the spare tire so i got floppy carpet should iput wood in there and mount bottle in the middle?
I was allso wondering if i should somehow fuse the cable. I have #1 welding cable wich i'll put in wire loom and tye wrap to anything not having fuel.i will put an optima battery in the back and use just a standard battery tie down.unless you guys have any other ideas.
I was allso wondering if i should somehow fuse the cable. I have #1 welding cable wich i'll put in wire loom and tye wrap to anything not having fuel.i will put an optima battery in the back and use just a standard battery tie down.unless you guys have any other ideas.
Last edited by raftdaddy; 01-17-2010 at 05:10 PM.
#4
There is a reason Ford places the solenoid so close to the battery. So that you won't have a wire that is hot running the length of the car. If that wire shorts due to a bad install, your car will burn. You could put a fuse in the wire but think of the size that would need to be. In the winter when you are cranking that started is pulling a bunch of amps down that LONG wire. What if your fuse blows then? Carry a spare? Often people do mods just because that is what the racers do. Those mods make sense on the track when you are looking for that last tenth of a second but they can be dangerous on the street.
Plus, are you running a ground wire to the block? Don't ground your battery to a bolt in the trunk. Your starter needs the battery grounded to the block due to all of those amps it pulls.
It may look cool putting your battery in the trunk but it make no sense in a street car.
Plus, are you running a ground wire to the block? Don't ground your battery to a bolt in the trunk. Your starter needs the battery grounded to the block due to all of those amps it pulls.
It may look cool putting your battery in the trunk but it make no sense in a street car.
#5
the reason for the optima is that doesn't give off fumes and they say it will not leak even with a broken case.they sell pretty nice optima holders too.i have a hatch so i want it to look good as well. just seems safer is all.and for the fusing it is more for protecting the feed wire.i had a car start smoking when i was younger, put an alarm wire on the battery with no fuse and it rubbed open started smoking and looked like a heater element.just want to know what the likelyhood of that happening again is.and a battery cut off switch is not a bad idea.now is the time to do it.
tony,why do you say the optima is crap?
tony,why do you say the optima is crap?
#6
mustang bradley,my plan was run to the solenoid and ground at the rear of the car and the starter seperatly to the frame.the main reason for the switch was to clean up some space for the zex controller and msd box.and as for the saftey side of it,i'm an electrician and it doesn't sit well not fusing it. i was hoping that someone with little more expirence on 12 volt systems could put my mind at ease. i'm just getting over the buttsplices on the fuel pump!!!and i know an 800 amp 12 volt fuse is not to common.
Last edited by raftdaddy; 01-18-2010 at 10:37 PM.
#7
The optima batteries weigh more, plain and simple. Other than that a battery is a battery.
As for not grounding the battery to a bolt/body in the rear... uhh? You are supposed to, but you have to compensate for the removal of the engine block ground and run a ground wire from the block to body. Btw, there is a second braided ground strap on the back of the cylinder head connecting to the firewall.
I'm running a 4 gage ground wire from the front of block to body and a 4 gage ground wire from cylinder head to firewall. I wouldn't worry about the fuse but that's just my opinion and there's nothing wrong with running one.
As for not grounding the battery to a bolt/body in the rear... uhh? You are supposed to, but you have to compensate for the removal of the engine block ground and run a ground wire from the block to body. Btw, there is a second braided ground strap on the back of the cylinder head connecting to the firewall.
I'm running a 4 gage ground wire from the front of block to body and a 4 gage ground wire from cylinder head to firewall. I wouldn't worry about the fuse but that's just my opinion and there's nothing wrong with running one.
#8
If you put the solenoid back with the battery, that would be much safer since the long wire would only be hot when you were starting the car. If you NEED the battery in the trunk, that is the way to go. Perhaps I am going overboard here with the ground cable. Everyone has their pet peeves. Will the setup work grounded to the body in back? Yes. That said, a fuse in the starter wire seems to be unecessary if you run it with the solenoid in the trunk.
http://mustangefiswap.blogspot.com/
http://mustangefiswap.blogspot.com/
#9
That is the best method. You will also need to wire up the switch to kill the charging system.
Another reason to run a rear mounted battery is weight distribution.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hOouW3v5yM
Another reason to run a rear mounted battery is weight distribution.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hOouW3v5yM
#10
that totally makes sense! i don't have to relocate it but i started getting rid of stuff and i can't stop.just want the underhood to be as clean as possible.i'll take a look at what has to be done go from there.great idea.
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4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
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