I have a stock 89 5.0 that im about to rebuild the motor on.

i want to run it naturally aspirated for a while and get the most power out of my engine while making it reliable. if thats possible?

I'm still kinda new at all this.

 

The 5.0 is a fine platform to build a powerful engine. You can build it very tough or mild. Honestly, all you need is a fat checkbook. Today, the rage is stroker kits. My opinion is that the 331 is best. The 347 requires the hole for the wristpin to encroach into the oil ring on the piston. That means the motor will always burn some oil. If this is not a concern for you (and it seems to not be for a large number of people) the 347 may be a good way to go. Also, in the future, you can always add a puffer.

The key is to get a good builder. I got burned by one.

http://mustangefiswap.blogspot.com/

 

You can get a 347 stroker kit for around $800 and if you rebuild your and your crank needs turning thats about $100 then resizing the rods and ARP bolts then your at $250 then new pistons if forged atleast $350 so your better off going with the stroker kit that comes with forged pistons and most have the rod bolts

 

Thats interesting. Is burning oil the only concern? I guess if I graduate to a stroker I'll stop at 331. thanks

 

you've been reading to many myth's, the oil issues in the past are just that, there are many ways to build a 347, and only reason to go 331 is if class racing constraints require such or you want less hp, my 347 does not burn a drop, uses a 331 piston and a 5.315 rod and a 3.4 throw on the crank, which is why people are not concerned with past issues = resolved

 

what whould be a good brand fora stroker kit?

 

You can buy a kit already put to gether or you can do as i did and peice it together if you know what exactly you want for about the same price you can get a kit for.

You can come off with as little as 800$ or up to 2500$ for a kit depending on the parts you order!
If you have to have forged everything your not gonna be at the 800$ mark lol, but you have to consider what you`ll be doing in the long run. The parts i used came to about 957.00 or so for crank rods pistons ring s and bearings and camshaft, I picked exactly what i wanted.
Machine work and all i have about 1600$ in my bottom end, the machining included rotating assembly balancing, clearancing the cylinders, cylinder bore, freeze plugs installed cam bearings the whole nine yards.

 

thanks mjr46 for the clarification. i shouldn't worry about it though. ill never be spending that kind of money because id be sleeping in the garage if i did.