Ex0r

Is it possible to get the timing off to the point where the car will no longer start? I had to strip the car down to replace a head gasket on it, and although I marked the distributor location I think it's still off. The book shows you how to adjust it, but the car needs to be running to do so and mine will not start.

Is it possible that I have the timing off a bit on it, and can just rotate the housing to adjust it, or do I need to remove the dist and plugs, tdc the motor, and than set the dist. accordingly? I don't have access to a timing light for a few days, so I can't really go that route, so I am hoping I can just rotate the housing a little bit until it fires up, than slowly rotate it til it levels out.

I'm not sure if having the timing off can cause it not to start, or will it eventually start but run rough? I cranked it over for about 2 minutes and you can feel the and hear the car cranking over and attempting to start, and the rpms go up on it, but it never fully engages.

Any ideas?

AdderMk2

Start from the beginning, and restab the distributor... i can almost guarantee that you did it incorrectly

FWIW, there is a sticky about it!

Ex0r

by start from the beginning, I am assuming you mean pull the dist. out and reposition the teeth? How am I supposed to know where to position it to now? The crank has turned over since I tried starting it, so it won't go back to the same position.

What do you suggest I do?

AdderMk2

go read the sticky

*edit* since you probaby cant find it on your own...
https://mustangforums.com/m_3264510/tm.htm

Ex0r

Thanks for the link, I could have found it though once I knew one existed. Will read up on it.

Hmm, seems simple enough. I will give it a try tomorrow. Only thing that is a bit confusing is marking the balancer at 0 degrees. Does it have a mark on the balancer that I can use for a reference? The picture looks like it's just got a bunch of tick marks in it, not sure which one would be the 0 degree mark. Will have to wait til I get at the car to get a closer look at it.

Nevermind, I looked up another forum post and found that the balancer is already marked up to 30 degrees retarted. I still have the crank pulley on it, so hopefully I can see the balancer over it. The engine is still in the car.

Thanks for the help adder!

Ex0r

This is absurd, I have NO idea what is wrong. I marked the 0 mark on the balancer, checked for air blowing out of hole, it lined up correctly, and than the rotor is in the correct place,and it wouldn't start. I finally got it started, but I had to turn the distributor so that the mark in the dist. shaft was way off the mark on the block. Like 10 or 20 degrees off of it. It runs now, but barely. It idles fine, etc, but when you accelerate the pedal feels extremely stiff, and the car accelerates extremely slow. You almost have to push the pedal down really hard to the floor for it to even go, even in first gear. Something still isn't right with it.

I was driving it home and the lower rad. hose clamp broke, and the hose flew off. By the time I got home, the car was smoking like hell. I don't think I did any damage luckily, the overheating light or needle never came up, but we'll see. Going to put a new hose on tomorrow with new clamps, fill it up with antifreeze again and try it again.

No idea what's up with the low power, it seems like it's got low compression or something. Really weird that the pedal is that stiff too, doesn't that only connect to the TB blade, so it should be really loose anyways.

AdderMk2

if you have to rotate the distributor that far, you are a tooth off... you need to re-stab it again

Ex0r

Its weird the tooth is off if at tdc everything lines up. Rotor points directly at tdc. Would being off one tooth cause the other problems too?

AdderMk2

are you aligning the rotor to the mark INSIDE the distributor for cylinder one BEFORE or AFTER you put it into the block

Ex0r

When I checked the alignment, i didn't even have to move the dist, so it was in the block. I found tdc at piston #1 and removed the cap on the dist. The rotor was lined up with the mark like in the picture. It wouldn't start the way it was although occassionally you could hear it about to fire.

I loosened the hold down bolt and twisted the housing a bit clockwise while my dad cranked it over til it started and stayed running, than tightened down the bolt. That is where it put me, about 10 or 20 degrees away from the alignment marks on the housing and block.