stang975

Ok heres the deal i have a 1998 mustang converted from v6 to 5.0 around 3 years ago. last summer i added a trickflow topend kit, with a professional products 70mm tb, 30lb injectors, ford racing lifters, c&l 76 cold air tuned for 30lb injectors, and flow tech headers. And have had nothing but problems every since it wont idle i think thats because of the fuel pump it still has the sixer pump but i ordered a ford gt pump for it the next day blew a head gasket 2nd one i dont understand why it keeps blowing them. I have read that the 5.0 blocks are poorly made and the decks warp could this be it. Im out of ideas can anyone help?

primetime5.0

are you following the proper torque sequence? putting sealant on the lower bolts?

stang975

Yes i followed the torque with trickflow kit and I put rtv as directed ok i forgot to mention this and i know it was stupid i know the first time it blew was i had a bum torque wrench and it was my first time doing a topend so the wrench didnt click after 65lbs so i pulled until i heard it and i heard a click more like a pow i snapped the head bolt in the block well i had forgotten to put rtv the first time and my uncle who has been working on muscle cars for years and i dont know if its different for old cars from the 60s but he reuses head bolts i told him you shouldnt but i took his word he had never had any problems so i used the old head bolts i think that is why it happened the first time. Now the past time i changed gaskets i bought new head bolts but i used factory replacement but i put the rtv sealer on it and i followed the torque seq. and specs. could the factory head bolts cause it to blow this time?

primetime5.0

I wouldn't think so personally, have you checked the block and head to make sure there straight? What did trick flow recommend for the torque spec? You used moly on the uppers?

stang975

Molys? i checked the heads last time the were straight i didnt check the block. heres what it done i havent pulled the heads yet but i got off the interstate and it was blowing white smoke pretty bad. i pulled in the driveway and it was really smoking. so i cut it off to check the oil for anti freeze i didnt see any but when i went to start it it wouldnt crank like the cylinders were full of antifreeze so i left it i didnt want to bend a rod. my dad started it the next day it smoked bad we have a garage so i drove it 15miles to the garage and the car started missing i mean i could feel almost every stroke it made. it looked like something you would see off nascar as i went through town i parked it cause on the way up it start heating up it never went red but it wasnt far from it.

primetime5.0

its like assembly lube used when putting motors together to get an accurate torque reading

stang975

no i didnt but i will this time also i was adjusting the valves and where the intake goes over the valve cover i had to take it off to get the valve covers off i was putting the intake back on after adjusting them i guess where the motor got hot when i tightened the front bolt on the pass side it cracked right behine the bolt put not all the through could that cause a vacuum leak and effect the idle? will the new fuel pump help idle issues? thanks so much for your help

primetime5.0

did you get a good torque reading from it? did you follow the special order on the lower intake and go through the tightening sequence a few times? Now were talking a completely different issue

stang975

Ok so I was wondering if my block could be warped? I have heard that these block are said to be poorly made I was just wondering if that could be causing it to blow headgaskets could the deck be wavey answer will be greatly appreciated.

rmodel65

the blocks arent poorly made but you might have tweaked your heads from not torquing properly i just sold my 5.0 vert and it had 190k on it the thing was bullet proof