projectresto83

With gears and knowing how to drive you can hit mid 14's where you are now. You need to replace the midpipe and get some headers to finish off that exhaust.

AdderMk2

very poor choices... stick around and learn some more about the 5.0 engines and how to make good power, and you will see the flaw in your selection

nitrous_bob

yes it can be done all day long.

my '89 notch went 13.20's on a 100% stock 100k motor

it had 4.10's, et streets, southsides (crappy), 1 5/8 long tubes, O/R h pipe, flowmaster 2 1/2" cat back, ac delete and smog delete and pullies.

on a 75 shot the same setup went 12.50's

drop weight, do the gears and a sticky tire. then just drive it hard

91_5.0LX

what h/c/i combo would you go with?

mjr46

with the smaller 1.90/1.60 eddy rpm heads and an rpm II intake and a custom FTI cam my 89 vert has run 12.6 @108 right out of the box....if you want the afr heads port wise they match real well to the holley systemax intake, If 12's are all your after afr 165's the holley intake and a custom cam would be a decent selection and with all other supporting mods such as TB,MAF,GEARS,and exhaust mid to low 12's should be easy if you can drive, personally I might pass up the 165 heads and go straight to the 185's

91_5.0LX

really good combo, AFR 185 with holley intake, thats what I'll go for. I heard that the AFR where the best heads for the money.

nitrous_bob

i'd probably agree, but also NEVER use box stock parts unless you have to.

there is a lot to be gained by a little port work. ported exhaust on the heads along with a comp valve job for the heads, matched intake to felpro 1250 and maybe smooth the turns too.

for roughly $300 you can gain quite a bit over box stock, moreso on the heads alone

but dont overport... you dont wanna hog out the intakes on the heads and lose air velocity

STROKED_LX

Yeah i have read comparison's on Holley Systemax II, and its a really good intake.

67mustang302

To give you an idea....this is in my 67 coupe which is probably realistically around 3,300+lbs with me in it and fuel going down the track. Times and conditions in my sig. But my setup is a 302 with untouched AFR 165's(not using their springs though) 1.7rr with a 1.7 ratio Crane hyd roller OTS cam(not a great cam, but not terrible) 9.44:1 and LT's with h pipe(has tri-y's with an x now), UDP's, all the ignition crap, 650cfm carb and ran it both on an RPM Air Gap and a low rise Weiand dual plane, same times on both intakes. 3.55 gear. The engine internals are lighter than a stock bottom end though, so that's something to consider.

The times are on street tires, with sticky tires it would prolly be a consistent mid 12. Due to reasons not listed, it's going to be getting an FTI custom cam soon, and I figure it will be at least as fast(the cam is gonna be ground for a wide rpm road racing power band, not drag strip), possibly faster at the strip.

Keep in mind that engine build is dictated by use, a smaller head like AFR 165's make very broad power across the rpm range....but if you're looking for something that's fast at the strip and can be driven on the street with less of a concern about WOT power down low, then you might consider a large head with a cam that tunes power higher up the rpm range.

As your car sits right now assuming it's in good shape, H/C/I will get you into the 13's on street tires. An H/C/I 302 that's set up nicely for the strip in a daily driven package can potentially run 12's on a street tire if set up properly. Also keep in mind that as speeds increase, so does cost. =\

mjr46

if you have to port your heads directly out of the box, that tells me you should of bought bigger port heads to begin with, but such isn't always the case, there are things to consider with otb parts such as cleaning up casting flaws ect ect, personally with the afr heads you don't want to port them as they come cnc ported to begin with and don't have much left to play with, if you wanna play the port game, buy TFS heads, they have plenty of room to grow