5.0 Suspension???
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 33
From: new jersey
5.0 Suspension???
Hey everyone,
Im looking to build a low 12-11sec foxbody.
Im lost when it comes to suspension.
If anyone coould help on what im going to need such as (k-memeber, spring, subframe connectors, control arms, etc.)
Also, any advice on what to buy and what kind of money im looking at to build up this suspension?
The cars suspension is all stock as of right now.
I would love the advice on what to replace, change, remove whatever has to be done!!!
Thanks everyone, appreciate the help
Im looking to build a low 12-11sec foxbody.
Im lost when it comes to suspension.
If anyone coould help on what im going to need such as (k-memeber, spring, subframe connectors, control arms, etc.)
Also, any advice on what to buy and what kind of money im looking at to build up this suspension?
The cars suspension is all stock as of right now.
I would love the advice on what to replace, change, remove whatever has to be done!!!
Thanks everyone, appreciate the help
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,812
From: alabama
its really all in what u want to spend! what u want it to primarily do! etc.... there are adjustable everything to set specs just depends on ur application!
u can do k member rear control arms and struts and shocks plus springs for about 1100$ or less depending on parts u want!
u can do k member rear control arms and struts and shocks plus springs for about 1100$ or less depending on parts u want!
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 210
From: MI
it all depends on what you want to spend. You can get away with going cheap. I have a couple fox bodies- One will run nines, that consists of over 2K into the suspension. My other one runs high tens and all I did really was put the 4 cylinder suspension springs etc... did it all for under 200 bucks basically!! Need to know your budget man!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 33
From: new jersey
i mean im deff on a budget, im not trying to do anything crazy just a forged 306 with built trans and rear.. i mean i dont really wanna spend 2k on suspension, id love to do it under 1000$ but i want it to be ok to where im not having to fix it all the time
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 236
From: florida
do yourself a favor and save up for a good suspension it is one of the most important parts of your ride i would go with maximum motorsports just give them a call and they can help you out with the parts you need just do what i am doing and buy your parts slow but you get good suspension parts
5th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,736
From: St. Charles Il, and ISU
hey man, im doing a drag suspension right now. I have some really good quality stuff, and just spent $1700 TOTAL on the rear for lower and upper control arms, anti roll bar, shocks with coilover springs, and coilover bracket kit from Team Z Motorsports. Check em out, they make some cheaper stuff too
Also look at my build (1 Step Forward 10 steps back) give you a better idea of what all i got
Also look at my build (1 Step Forward 10 steps back) give you a better idea of what all i got
Former Sponsor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 630
From: FL
If you are just looking to drag race there will be many ways to put it together and get something that works well.
Like someone else suggested here you can go with 4 cylinder springs, you could also go with dedicated drag springs which we carry. We also carry inexpensive drag race airbags that go inside the right rear spring that will help you launch straighter. One bag is all you need for 39.95.
I would at least invest in some rear control arms as well. As far as K-members and things like that goes you can do things like that if you have the extra budget for weight reduction.
You will get tons of different opinions on this, and for the most part none of them will be wrong. Its easy to get a fox to hook.
Like someone else suggested here you can go with 4 cylinder springs, you could also go with dedicated drag springs which we carry. We also carry inexpensive drag race airbags that go inside the right rear spring that will help you launch straighter. One bag is all you need for 39.95.
I would at least invest in some rear control arms as well. As far as K-members and things like that goes you can do things like that if you have the extra budget for weight reduction.
You will get tons of different opinions on this, and for the most part none of them will be wrong. Its easy to get a fox to hook.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,028
From: st clair shores MI
all you need is a set of hpm megabite jrs
if you add a single air bag and pre-load it to 8 psi... i'll launch like a monster butt he hpm's are the biggest gain you'll see.
uppers are not necessary, in a 11-12 sec car battle boxes are not necessary unless you like 5k launches on a full slick. if you do 3500 launches on cheater slicks... you'll be fine
if you add a single air bag and pre-load it to 8 psi... i'll launch like a monster butt he hpm's are the biggest gain you'll see.
uppers are not necessary, in a 11-12 sec car battle boxes are not necessary unless you like 5k launches on a full slick. if you do 3500 launches on cheater slicks... you'll be fine
Former Sponsor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 630
From: FL
Many years ago before I ever worked at Steeda I personally did not have good experiences on my fox bodies with any lift style arm. Had South Side Machine bars on my cars and my best friend had Megabite JR's on his. Before we knew better that is.
Both of us had the same problems. The cars would hit the tire REAL hard on launch but by the 60ft the suspension would start to unload and we would get some wheel spin. The cars felt great, but would not 60ft better than a 1.7 or so on slicks.
With lift arms like I said you hit the tires hard, but as the suspension lifts and runs out of upward travel the wheels would unload and loose grip.
Think of yourself crouched down with your knees bent, then push up until your legs are straight again (no more travel), what happens to the weight on your feet at the top? Your upward momentum takes some weight off your feet for a second. That's what was happening to our tires with lift style arms.
We ended up having to switch to a move conventional lower control arm design to consistently get past the 1.7 60ft mark on both mine and my best friends car.
Both of us had the same problems. The cars would hit the tire REAL hard on launch but by the 60ft the suspension would start to unload and we would get some wheel spin. The cars felt great, but would not 60ft better than a 1.7 or so on slicks.
With lift arms like I said you hit the tires hard, but as the suspension lifts and runs out of upward travel the wheels would unload and loose grip.
Think of yourself crouched down with your knees bent, then push up until your legs are straight again (no more travel), what happens to the weight on your feet at the top? Your upward momentum takes some weight off your feet for a second. That's what was happening to our tires with lift style arms.
We ended up having to switch to a move conventional lower control arm design to consistently get past the 1.7 60ft mark on both mine and my best friends car.