And to have the block deck and line bore checked, and there may be ring groove, crank needs to be measured, honing is a must, ect ect.

 

I actually have to get a 6 inch and may have to cut it because of the height of the block the type of intake that has to be run since it cant have a belly pan and the large 105mm elbow im running off of an lsx im hoping i can fit it with out cutting it though, looks good though

 

Not on a 90k motor..well so long as there is obvious grooves and scratches. Us poor folk will skip a few steps if need be

 

lol +1

it was a 90k motor, and it was brought to the junkyard because of a rollover, not a failure. Plus the motor was in a explorer, not a mustang that has had the crap beat out of it for the last 20 years. I'm pretty confident the motor will be in great shape.

 

Ok, what I'm getting at is to properly change these pistons means that you need to take everything to the machine shop. No one can just look at the block deck (for example) and say whether or not it's square. When we pulled the motor out of our mountaineer, that engine had 80xxx miles on it with bad ring groove, Taper bored... My point to all of this in the first place is that you shouldn't waste your time swapping those pistons. I'm sure that putting your top end into this explorer short block will be fine. The pistons in your Mustangs engine probably aren't round anymore anyway.

 

yea, I agree.

picked up the motor yesterday, and was talking to my buddy about it. being that my current motor has so many miles on it, and I have beat that car to death ever since I owned it, It would be better off for me to just run the explorer pistons. I don't really see me using over a 150shot and those hyper pistons should hold up to that just fine as long as it doesn't lean out for some odd reason. maybe a gallon or two of race fuel at the track for good measure, and dont get to aggressive with the timing.


motor looks good so far....... other then the rod caps on 1, 5, and 3, 7 kinda felt loose. seems they could move around a little to much. but it might be in my head. I'm going to pull the bearings today and see what they look like.

probably just do new rings/bearings, and call it good.

 

Motorman, yes to properly rebuild that is what you want to do but again not everyone has the extra cash for the machine shop. The motor might not be in perfect shape but as long as both blocks are standard bore he will be fine. It is just to get him on the road and enough to play again. The only reason he wants to swap pistons (I am assuming) is because he loves his nitrous lol.

 

bro man knows me too well.

This isn't some motor swap that supposed to last 10 years, that im going to drive to work everyday and junk.

I can't afford a really nice fordstrokers motor, or Adders motor, or a 351w swap right now. So I'm doing a simple junkyard motor swap, put my heads/cam in/on the thing, and spray it to get the power where I want.

I don't see this motor being in the car past two years. if nitrous gets old, I might spend the $2,000-$2,500 on a on3 turbo kit, which total, I wouldn't have more then $3500 in this motor/turbo build, and it would be MUCH faster then the 347 I was planning on building.


its not the choice build obviously, but I would rather get my car back on the road with half assed parts, then see it sit for all of 2011.

 

So, did you get the motor installed yet?! :P

 

haha, no.

I'm going to put in new bearings and rings, then set the motor aside, and start pulling the motor in the mustang apart.

im going to try and just pull the motor out mostly together. in the past I would tear the motor down to the block, and then pull it out of the car.

but with the hood off, I think I can just pull the upper intake off, and use the upper intake bolts to hoist the engine out.