5.0L General Discussion This section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 5.0L Mustangs.

Questions for the go fast guys.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-31-2011, 08:41 AM
  #1  
bluebeastsrt
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
bluebeastsrt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Jersey
Posts: 11,565
Default Questions for the go fast guys.

Hi All. Im new to the 5.0 section. I spend all my time in the S/S section. I haven't owned a 5.0 sinse the 80s. Just bought a 95 GT and my plans are to put it in the 10s. I just came from an 11 second SRT-4 that would trap 120. My questions are. What would be the best gear ratio for a track car that would see a 150-200 shot. I'm thinking 4.10s but only want to buy mods once and do it right. Second question is the stock rear strong enough to handle the kind of power to get into the 10s? I've heard later model 8.8s will bolt right up and have 31 spline posi units. So all I'd have to do would be change out the gears and axles. Is this swap needed? I'm sure you guys are a wealth of information about this car and wont mind all my questions in the coming months.

Last edited by mjr46; 08-31-2011 at 11:21 AM.
bluebeastsrt is offline  
Old 08-31-2011, 10:47 AM
  #2  
AdderMk2
Banned
 
AdderMk2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Lil' Rhody
Posts: 22,376
Default

Someone has been feeding you alot of really bad information.

The only axles that will bolt directly into the SN-95 are fox and SN axles, and some of the old T-bird axles. Anything 99+ is wider (the actual housing) and will not fit right. the 03-04 Cobra rear ends were 31 spline, but hey are also IRS. Something you do not want.

Now on to your power and time goals...

A 302 with a stout shot like 150-200 will run some mean times, just be aware that you are going to need alot of suspension to get all that power to the ground. Gear wise, my choice would be 3.73's. MJR46 (one of the mods here) has run high 10's with his 3.73 geared 347 on a 100 shot. If you DO decide to run 4.10's, you might find yourself needing to step up to a slightly taller tire, like a 27". A nice happy medium would be a set of 3.90's. IIRC, the gear calculations I made showed that at 6800rpm, my car would be turning about 127-128. Plenty of speed to see a high 10 second slip.

I understand that alot of what i just typed might be slightly scatterbrained. The main point I was trying to make (and made it poorly) is that your gearing is going to have more to do with the trans that you run, and the h/c/i that is on your engine. A stock cam will begin to fall off around 4800rpm and is dam near dead by 5300rpm. This would require you to run a lower ratio, like a 3.73, just to get down the track without needing to shift into 5th.

Decide your engine combiniation before you choose gears. You'll be happier that way.
AdderMk2 is offline  
Old 08-31-2011, 11:25 AM
  #3  
mjr46
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
 
mjr46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
Default

Originally Posted by bluebeastsrt
Hi All. Im new to the 5.0 section. I spend all my time in the S/S section. I haven't owned a 5.0 sinse the 80s. Just bought a 95 GT and my plans are to put it in the 10s. I just came from an 11 second SRT-4 that would trap 120. My questions are. What would be the best gear ratio for a track car that would see a 150-200 shot. I'm thinking 4.10s but only want to buy mods once and do it right. Second question is the stock rear strong enough to handle the kind of power to get into the 10s? I've heard later model 8.8s will bolt right up and have 31 spline posi units. So all I'd have to do would be change out the gears and axles. Is this swap needed? I'm sure you guys are a wealth of information about this car and wont mind all my questions in the coming months.
my personal preference would be build it n/a as big as you can so if you do need no2 to reach the goal, you won't need much, I ran a 10.7 @128 on a 347 with 100 shot as Addermk2 stated, motor ran 11.4 @120.....however with the bottle comes a price...just blew a head gasket..lol, however they were 1011-2's so it was to be expected, just use quality parts and gaskets and to reach your goal a stroker for sure would be in line, and if you wanna spray it, best bet is start with a good foundation = aftermarket block, stock block will survive the 10's but for how long??? = crap shot
mjr46 is offline  
Old 08-31-2011, 11:33 AM
  #4  
bluebeastsrt
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
bluebeastsrt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Jersey
Posts: 11,565
Default

I've already deceided on working with this block. All bolt ons. (Trick flow heads, comp cam, intake exhaust etc.) The car is an Automatic and will stay that way for track consistancy. Now weather I stay with the AOD or work with a C4 remains to be seen. Would the current 8.8 hold up with upgraded axles? Thanks for your imput.
bluebeastsrt is offline  
Old 08-31-2011, 11:39 AM
  #5  
bluebeastsrt
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
bluebeastsrt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Jersey
Posts: 11,565
Default

Originally Posted by mjr46
my personal preference would be build it n/a as big as you can so if you do need no2 to reach the goal, you won't need much, I ran a 10.7 @128 on a 347 with 100 shot as Addermk2 stated, motor ran 11.4 @120.....however with the bottle comes a price...just blew a head gasket..lol, however they were 1011-2's so it was to be expected, just use quality parts and gaskets and to reach your goal a stroker for sure would be in line, and if you wanna spray it, best bet is start with a good foundation = aftermarket block, stock block will survive the 10's but for how long??? = crap shot
I hear ya about the stock block. It'll take alot to get this block up to snuff $$bolt-on$$ wise so i'll probably just roll the dice and rebuild it when it does finally fail. This car is bone stock so it needs it all. Suspension, rear, transmission. It took me about 3 years to get my SRT-4 from the high 13s into the high 11s. I'm hoping it's take about the same amount of time getting this car in the 10s being its a much better drag racing platform.
bluebeastsrt is offline  
Old 08-31-2011, 11:54 AM
  #6  
AdderMk2
Banned
 
AdderMk2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Lil' Rhody
Posts: 22,376
Default

I wouldnt bank on the stock 28 splines ever coming close to living at those power levels/times. The stock housing will be fine, just get the tubes welded. Drop a good 31 spline diff in and install some nice axles, and you'll be all set. You could go 33 spline if you wanted, but at a higher cost. I don't think its necessary.
AdderMk2 is offline  
Old 08-31-2011, 02:16 PM
  #7  
bluebeastsrt
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
bluebeastsrt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Jersey
Posts: 11,565
Default

What do you guys think of the ford racing 31 spline unit? Looks like it can be had for a fairly good price but I'm a firm believer in you get what you pay for when it comes to performance parts.
bluebeastsrt is offline  
Old 08-31-2011, 02:51 PM
  #8  
AdderMk2
Banned
 
AdderMk2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Lil' Rhody
Posts: 22,376
Default

Are you referring to the ~$279 FRPP Trac-lok? If so, make sure you buy the C model. With the CF clutches. They are beefier than the standard piece. I will be replacing the locker in my car with one... very soon!
AdderMk2 is offline  
Old 08-31-2011, 03:50 PM
  #9  
bluebeastsrt
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
bluebeastsrt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Jersey
Posts: 11,565
Default

Originally Posted by AdderMk2
Are you referring to the ~$279 FRPP Trac-lok? If so, make sure you buy the C model. With the CF clutches. They are beefier than the standard piece. I will be replacing the locker in my car with one... very soon!
Yes thats the one. I seen it on the americanmuscle web sight for $225 free shipping..
bluebeastsrt is offline  
Old 08-31-2011, 07:58 PM
  #10  
ctgreddy
6th Gear Member
 
ctgreddy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Dearborn, MI
Posts: 6,277
Default

yeah that diff will be fine and is a good bang for the buck. like i said in the s/s section that diff with some nice mosers and whatever gears you decide will deff hold your power. for suspension look into the teamz or baseline rear end kits. cant really go wrong with either one baseline tends to be a smidge cheaper tho.

for trans really just decide if you're gonna wanna cruise around on it in the street a lot. if not i'd go with the c4. way cheaper to build and lighter.
ctgreddy is offline  


Quick Reply: Questions for the go fast guys.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:46 PM.