Ok, so I have been researching as much as time allows and have gotten a good idea of what I want to do with my first 5.0 build. I have searched most all of these topics but apologize ahead of time if this has been covered before.

1. Exhaust: I have BBK shorty headers, o/r xpipe, and flowmaster 40s. Don't wanna play around too much with that as it is already a pretty decent setup.

2. H/C/I: I have a good pick and pull yard by me that has a 1998 5.0 exploder with the topend intact. I can have the heads and intake for a combined $200, so I think that is the route I will be going with. These are GT40P heads iirc correct? Also I have access to a machine shop where I can port the lower plenum of the intake which is what i understand the weak point of the exploder intake, and may look into doing some head work as well, i.e. opening up the exhaust ports. Should I go with 1.6 or 1.7 rockers? what about springs? Hardened pushrods? as far as cams what should I look for? Trick flow stage 1s seem to be everyones favorite for this setup so I am leaning towards them.

3. TB/MAF/ACT/EGR: If my memory serves right I will have to relocate my ACT sensor to the intake tube or tap the lower (which is better?). Also I have a CAI so I will be getting a MAF sensor calibrated for that. What size and brand TB do you recommend? Also, what do I need to do to eliminate all my EGR components as emissions aren't required where I live?

4. Pulleys: From what I underswtand underdrive pulleys are a waste of my time. I have a smog eliminator, A/C eliminator, and manual steering rack. any other ideas on what to do to free up some ponies?

5. Tubular K-member: worth it for my application or no? if so which brand?

6. Tuning: Should I bother with a J3 port tuner or anything like that? What about injectors? stay with stock or go bigger? if so how much bigger? should I also be looking into a higher flow fuel pump?

7. Ignition: I will not be running this on the strip but do want to have some good throttle response. I have been looking into a full MSD setup with a new dizzy (any recomendations?) probably a 6AL box and new coil. Does this seem like overkill?

Last but not least would be some cheater slicks and skinnies up front and 4.10s as I dont drive this car very far. I am expecting low 12s- high 11s and a little under 300rwhp, am I on the right track?

 

Well I'm no mustang guru about all the tech questions but my opinion would be 300 hp at the wheels is a little high for those mods, maybe 240-260. And 1/4 mile times around mid to high 12's with a car that is set-up and driven like you stole it. Hope that didn't ruin your day but that car will still put a smile on your face.

 

I also forgot to mention it has a T-5 and elctric fans. So I should only be expecting about 270 or so? damn, I guess it's time to look at hooking it up to some juice.

 

The 5.0s respond pretty well to mods, but the weak point (hp wise) are the heads and intake, even when ported, there is only so much you can do with the general GT-40 design. One good thing I can say about it is that the GT-40 design does make some decent torque numbers.

As far as cams, they are very open, TF, Eddlebrock, Comp, and others all make good cams. Point is to get one that opperates where and when you need it. I'm no cam guru but the Steeda #18 has an opperating level near where you need it for those mods and it's not so aggressive that it kills the cars ability to drive on the street.

For tuning it's gonna be a hard one cause of the age of the car. I would almost say to just let a shop with the appropriate software tune the car cause for OBDI cars you need a person that knows how to opperate a tuning software system. For your average Joe, tuning a car with the mods you'll have will be like shooting in the dark at a targe 100 yards away.

For the MAF just get one calibrated to whatever fuel system you decide to run. However on a note, unless you go boosted you won't be really making enough power to need to go larger than 24lb. In that case keep your stock MAF and just get a Cobra ECU. The car will run better and will require a little less tuning and tweeking due to aftermarket MAFs always running rich.

As far as RRs go, that's up to you. It's a take and give thing, 1.6s will put less wear on the valve train and as a result last longer. 1.7s are proven to make around 10 rwhp, give or take a little, but do put more stress on the valve train which requires the springs to be changed out around every 50,000 to 75,000 miles as they will cause worn springs to float the valves reducing power.

As far as the rods go just get the right ones for the cam, thats all I'll say on that.

Tublar K members are nice, but prove to be a tricky install for some people and require a ton of time and effort for the install. Unless you're going turbo or really doing some crazy autocrossing I'd skip this one.

For the mods you'll have your stock ignition is more than good. The only thing that may help a little will be an A9L control module. But other than that, the stock is very sufficient. Although I am more prone to NGK copper V plugs. Good quality, rust resistant, and last a long time.

U/D pullies do add power but nothing noticible, I've always said they're good at making dynos look a hair bit better but have next to no real world application.

For a TB 65mm or 70mm is ideal for your application. 75mm is actually too large and can reduce torque and hp. There was an article on here about it a few years back, may wanna try to find it.

As stated this build will be good for around 275-300 rwhp, it will all come down to the quality and extent of the port job and the cam choice.

 

The 5-speed is going to really help get your 1/4 mile times. My car put down 270 at the wheels and with the auto was only good for 13.4, but a trap speed of 109. And miserable 2.2 short times. I'm thinking about a 5-speed swap over winter. On your first post (#7) you said you won't be taking this down the strip, but you want to run big and littles for tires. Looks good but wouldn't recommend for street.

 

IMHO, you'll be very lucky to see 260-275HP out of this combo.
There are also a lot of other places to get weight out of a FOX body
before you need to worry about a 'K' member.
You need to do more research on this whole thing.....