Help before I just go buy a damn Hyundai...
#1
Help before I just go buy a damn Hyundai...
Well, last night, as I was going to go meet up with a female friend in the odd hours of the night, my car did something unusual. Since my family took adoption of two wee twins, my mother asks me to push the car down the street before starting it so I don't wake them. No problem since the car is light.
So I'm pushing the car and steering it, with the key in the on position and as I steer, I suddenly hear a snapping sound and I lose all power. My key now won't do anything. No radio, nothing. As this happened, some light smoke started bellowing from under the hood but I couldn't see anything that looked burnt.
I changed the ignition lock cylinder and nothing. The car will crank if the battery is jumped to the starter solenoid buuuut, the fuel pump isn't coming on due to the key not being turned. Also the wires going to the coil are extremely hot.
Where do I even start to go about fixing this?
So I'm pushing the car and steering it, with the key in the on position and as I steer, I suddenly hear a snapping sound and I lose all power. My key now won't do anything. No radio, nothing. As this happened, some light smoke started bellowing from under the hood but I couldn't see anything that looked burnt.
I changed the ignition lock cylinder and nothing. The car will crank if the battery is jumped to the starter solenoid buuuut, the fuel pump isn't coming on due to the key not being turned. Also the wires going to the coil are extremely hot.
Where do I even start to go about fixing this?
#4
Yes electrical gremlins are a nightmare. But...
You can get an even cheaper multimeter at Harbor Frieght tools for less then $5 that might help you.
Also, I am not sure about these Mustangs. But years ago on my old 1978 Mustang II there was a 'fuseable' link it was called that went out when overloaded. I had it go out on me in a similar manner. And like you I could jump it from the battery to the solenoid. But good for me back then the fuel pump was mechanical on the engine.
Hope this is some help. Good Luck!
You can get an even cheaper multimeter at Harbor Frieght tools for less then $5 that might help you.
Also, I am not sure about these Mustangs. But years ago on my old 1978 Mustang II there was a 'fuseable' link it was called that went out when overloaded. I had it go out on me in a similar manner. And like you I could jump it from the battery to the solenoid. But good for me back then the fuel pump was mechanical on the engine.
Hope this is some help. Good Luck!
#6
Check your ignition switch for power in and out. Believe there was recall years ago on the switch. They wear out after so long. veryuseful.commustangwiring... then... Go to the mustang faq wiring engine air bag abs wiring tech... then...schematic, in color of fuel & alt & ign & ac, for 5.0 by T Moss Should get you some insight. I do electrical exorcisms around here.
#7
Thanks mate. Noticed from there that there's fusible links. I can't believe I didn't see them all bundled there under the starter solenoid.-_-
Turns out the one with the big yellow wire coming out blew. A few minutes of soldering in a new "in-line fuse" type link with a 10amp blade fuse and the car actually starts better now. I may cut out all my fusible links and do a blade conversion. Make life a lot easier.
Turns out the one with the big yellow wire coming out blew. A few minutes of soldering in a new "in-line fuse" type link with a 10amp blade fuse and the car actually starts better now. I may cut out all my fusible links and do a blade conversion. Make life a lot easier.
#9
I test drove said Hyundai. Let me tell you, it was damn nice but...it just didn't give me the same grin nor attention the mustang does when started.
I was talking about a 2012 Hyundai Genesis track btw.
I was talking about a 2012 Hyundai Genesis track btw.
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