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Expected dyno numbers?

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Old 01-21-2013, 09:47 PM
  #11  
Duncan_GT
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What program is that? Is there anything you can suggest for me to look into/change?
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:31 PM
  #12  
tinman
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I didn't have time to run anything to compare that to.
I would think that it would show more with a 10.5:1 compression however.
As much as people won't like this, hydraulic roller cams are NOT the 'end all' if you are looking for power.
Solid mechcanical rollers still make the most power...
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:46 AM
  #13  
mjr46
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Originally Posted by tinman
As much as people won't like this, hydraulic roller cams are NOT the 'end all' if you are looking for power.
Solid mechcanical rollers still make the most power...
anybody who knows anything knows that to be true, heck I thought of swapping to solid , but ED said the rpm potential of the solid will make short life of my stock block
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:08 AM
  #14  
Duncan_GT
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I thought solid mechanicals were better in the racecar types? I would hate to have to pull my intake off every 1000 miles to adjust them too
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:56 PM
  #15  
Venomantidote95
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Solid cams are better but you sacrifice alot of driveability and parts life such as vlv train items, etc...

But yes it would net you more power!

The camshaft you have ground with 110* lobe sep would get you more power but not with that compression!

But on a lower compression engine the 114 will help you out and also if you use a power-adder!

That cam specifies no less than 10:1 in the comp cams lit i believe, 9.7 is close enough for it to work fine!
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:44 PM
  #16  
Duncan_GT
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Would a 110* be very computer compatible?
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:51 PM
  #17  
mjr46
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Originally Posted by Duncan_GT
Would a 110* be very computer compatible?
my last custom cam before changing to a s/c friendly one was on a 109 and ecm had no probs, it's not always about the number there, many factors such as how aggressive is the lobe profile can factor into such as well as the entire build, ect ect......
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:00 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Duncan_GT
I thought solid mechanicals were better in the racecar types? I would hate to have to pull my intake off every 1000 miles to adjust them too
not really, it all depends on the intended use/design.........there are such cams as TLSR = TIGHT LASH SOLID ROLLER, which is running a hydraulic roller lifter on a solid profile, use the proper lifters and it'll run a long time, don't and it'll fly apart.........no pulling the lower, just maybe the upper to access valve covers and checking adjustment is done 1-2 times a year. You can run a solid on the street as well and it be totally streetable, it all depends on the lobe profile you do with....aggressive, vs moderate, vs lazy as I call it..lol Don't get caught up in lift and duration numbers and think those are the be all to end all in choosing a cam
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Old 01-23-2013, 12:26 AM
  #19  
tinman
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There is a real easy to tell how aggressive any cam will act.
Look at the duration @ .050 and look at the 'advertised' duration.
See what the % is at .050 compared to the 'advertised' duration.
If you get a cam that more than about 80% at .050 to 'advertised', it will be very aggressive.
Solid lifters were standard stuff in all hi-performance ehgines from all the auto makers until the great EPA did them in.
Cars ran fine for a whole lot more than a 1000 miles before they had to have the valve lash set.
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Old 01-23-2013, 12:29 AM
  #20  
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Duncan_GT look at your PM's.........
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