bolt ons done... so now what
10-08-2013, 09:49 PM
#14
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 25
10-09-2013, 12:54 AM
#16
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 25
Okay then what do you recommend to upgrade? I've already got subframe connectors, aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 gears, rear tubular control arms, eibach struts, shocks, and springs. Not sure what else can be done here haha
10-09-2013, 07:00 AM
#17
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 5,061
I'd personally save your money and start working that 60 down. You have all you need to start pulling 1.8-1.7 60's. The old rule of thumb is every tenth you knock off your 60ft, knocks 2tenths off off your et. Your at 2.0 60's now, launching alittle harder, getting a 60ft of 1.8 will drop your et .4 sec. This was an example, but it work out exactly as said for me.
How hard are you launching the car, what rpm? How hot are you getting the tires? Whats your tire pressure? Are you spinning at all at the launch? I don't know your car but you've got everything you need to pull your 60ft down in the 1.7's, and that's a very addictive feeling when a car hooks and goes.
How hard are you launching the car, what rpm? How hot are you getting the tires? Whats your tire pressure? Are you spinning at all at the launch? I don't know your car but you've got everything you need to pull your 60ft down in the 1.7's, and that's a very addictive feeling when a car hooks and goes.
Last edited by 88 orangepeel notch; 10-09-2013 at 07:07 AM.
10-09-2013, 02:19 PM
#18
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 25
I'd personally save your money and start working that 60 down. You have all you need to start pulling 1.8-1.7 60's. The old rule of thumb is every tenth you knock off your 60ft, knocks 2tenths off off your et. Your at 2.0 60's now, launching alittle harder, getting a 60ft of 1.8 will drop your et .4 sec. This was an example, but it work out exactly as said for me.
How hard are you launching the car, what rpm? How hot are you getting the tires? Whats your tire pressure? Are you spinning at all at the launch? I don't know your car but you've got everything you need to pull your 60ft down in the 1.7's, and that's a very addictive feeling when a car hooks and goes.
How hard are you launching the car, what rpm? How hot are you getting the tires? Whats your tire pressure? Are you spinning at all at the launch? I don't know your car but you've got everything you need to pull your 60ft down in the 1.7's, and that's a very addictive feeling when a car hooks and goes.
I'll also check the valve springs for sure this winter. The previous owner did gt40 heads and I'm not sure if he did new springs or not. A couple people have said if the heads still have the stock springs it could be hurting my top end.
I've just started drag racing this year so I'm sure there's a lot of room for improvement. Ive been launching at 2500-3000, just a small burnout on my friends radials at 20psi. I will be getting my own set of drag radials for next year so I cam fine tune them for my car.
10-10-2013, 11:16 AM
#20
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 166
Nitrous is not as cheap as most people think.
IMO for $1000 and a winter to play I'd:
Pull the engine and freshen everything up. Rings, bearings, seals, and a cam w/valve springs that are matched for your combo. Take the rest and get a set of DRs.. and if possible some lower control arms for the rear. (or the cheapest thing is to replace the control arm bushings.. but its not easy)
Subframe connectors make a noticable difference in a car that is street & track driven.
Stock cam with those heads.. I'd shift 1-2 @ 5600 2-3 & 3-4 at 5400. (always "buzz" 1st gear)
IMO for $1000 and a winter to play I'd:
Pull the engine and freshen everything up. Rings, bearings, seals, and a cam w/valve springs that are matched for your combo. Take the rest and get a set of DRs.. and if possible some lower control arms for the rear. (or the cheapest thing is to replace the control arm bushings.. but its not easy)
Subframe connectors make a noticable difference in a car that is street & track driven.
Stock cam with those heads.. I'd shift 1-2 @ 5600 2-3 & 3-4 at 5400. (always "buzz" 1st gear)