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bolt ons done... so now what

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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 07:11 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by brennan1994
I'm on a college student budget
Lol I feel ya. Me too
Old Oct 8, 2013 | 08:03 PM
  #12  
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get a real cam, real heads and a real intake and add a supercharger, throw any budget out the window, small budgets make for slow rides
Old Oct 8, 2013 | 09:24 PM
  #13  
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Which track do you go to, Great Lakes or Kaukauna? I'm about 40 min. north of Milwaukee, kinda half way between the two.

Last edited by 88 orangepeel notch; Oct 8, 2013 at 09:31 PM.
Old Oct 8, 2013 | 09:49 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by 88 orangepeel notch
Which track do you go to, Great Lakes or Kaukauna? I'm about 40 min. north of Milwaukee, kinda half way between the two.
I go to the one in kaukana. I might be going this Friday if I can find the time too and the weather agrees.
Old Oct 9, 2013 | 12:41 AM
  #15  
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With those 60' times I'd say to work on the chassis/drivetrain end of the car now.
I can see you losing 3-4 tenths easily just there........
Old Oct 9, 2013 | 12:54 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by tinman
With those 60' times I'd say to work on the chassis/drivetrain end of the car now.
I can see you losing 3-4 tenths easily just there........
Okay then what do you recommend to upgrade? I've already got subframe connectors, aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 gears, rear tubular control arms, eibach struts, shocks, and springs. Not sure what else can be done here haha
Old Oct 9, 2013 | 07:00 AM
  #17  
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I'd personally save your money and start working that 60 down. You have all you need to start pulling 1.8-1.7 60's. The old rule of thumb is every tenth you knock off your 60ft, knocks 2tenths off off your et. Your at 2.0 60's now, launching alittle harder, getting a 60ft of 1.8 will drop your et .4 sec. This was an example, but it work out exactly as said for me.

How hard are you launching the car, what rpm? How hot are you getting the tires? Whats your tire pressure? Are you spinning at all at the launch? I don't know your car but you've got everything you need to pull your 60ft down in the 1.7's, and that's a very addictive feeling when a car hooks and goes.

Last edited by 88 orangepeel notch; Oct 9, 2013 at 07:07 AM.
Old Oct 9, 2013 | 02:19 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 88 orangepeel notch
I'd personally save your money and start working that 60 down. You have all you need to start pulling 1.8-1.7 60's. The old rule of thumb is every tenth you knock off your 60ft, knocks 2tenths off off your et. Your at 2.0 60's now, launching alittle harder, getting a 60ft of 1.8 will drop your et .4 sec. This was an example, but it work out exactly as said for me.

How hard are you launching the car, what rpm? How hot are you getting the tires? Whats your tire pressure? Are you spinning at all at the launch? I don't know your car but you've got everything you need to pull your 60ft down in the 1.7's, and that's a very addictive feeling when a car hooks and goes.
Well I think I'm gonna still look into a camshaft.

I'll also check the valve springs for sure this winter. The previous owner did gt40 heads and I'm not sure if he did new springs or not. A couple people have said if the heads still have the stock springs it could be hurting my top end.

I've just started drag racing this year so I'm sure there's a lot of room for improvement. Ive been launching at 2500-3000, just a small burnout on my friends radials at 20psi. I will be getting my own set of drag radials for next year so I cam fine tune them for my car.
Old Oct 9, 2013 | 02:27 PM
  #19  
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Cut some weight out. That'll help
Old Oct 10, 2013 | 11:16 AM
  #20  
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Nitrous is not as cheap as most people think.

IMO for $1000 and a winter to play I'd:
Pull the engine and freshen everything up. Rings, bearings, seals, and a cam w/valve springs that are matched for your combo. Take the rest and get a set of DRs.. and if possible some lower control arms for the rear. (or the cheapest thing is to replace the control arm bushings.. but its not easy)

Subframe connectors make a noticable difference in a car that is street & track driven.

Stock cam with those heads.. I'd shift 1-2 @ 5600 2-3 & 3-4 at 5400. (always "buzz" 1st gear)



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