Factory Oil
#1
Factory Oil
Anyone know if the factory puts synthetic oil in the new 5 liters? The owner's manual recommends both synthetic and non, as long as it is 5w20. I'm going to use synthetic at my first oil change, but I don't want to mix the two if I need to do a top up prior to that.
#3
I couldn't find in the manual either (other than it's 5w-20). I would assume its the synthetic BLEND, since that's what the 4.6s got.
Since these cars don't require require full synthetic, I'd be shocked to find out the factory used it.
If you find out for sure, please post it here.
Since these cars don't require require full synthetic, I'd be shocked to find out the factory used it.
If you find out for sure, please post it here.
#4
It's the same blend as before, per our service dept.
Typically they put the Mobil1 or whatever synthetic du jour on the oil cap when that's what they want you to use. My 'Vettes and Vipers had Mobil 1 oil caps or stickers on them from the factory to remind you.
Typically they put the Mobil1 or whatever synthetic du jour on the oil cap when that's what they want you to use. My 'Vettes and Vipers had Mobil 1 oil caps or stickers on them from the factory to remind you.
#5
Any reason for 20W
Is there any reason except micro fuel economy why Ford suggests 20W oil. I know in the 500 that higher vis is the rule. It would seem that a 0 or 5-30 would be better especially in hotter climates with a higher reving engine. I know oil is a sacred topic but looking for somethng definative.
#6
Lots and lots of speculation out there about why Ford went with 5w-20 and whether 5w-30 is actually better.
Some say its only about CAFE standards for Ford, and that 30 weight is better for longevity and a quieter valve train. Others argue that the tolerances are so low that the lighter oil is needed.
Bottom line, while the brand cannot be a requirement, the oil weight is a requirement for the warranty.
Some say its only about CAFE standards for Ford, and that 30 weight is better for longevity and a quieter valve train. Others argue that the tolerances are so low that the lighter oil is needed.
Bottom line, while the brand cannot be a requirement, the oil weight is a requirement for the warranty.
#7
Cidsdamuth is right, I spoke to my dealer, and he tells me the factory puts a synthetic blend in the car. I checked in the manual a couple of times, and nowhere does it specify what it comes with from Ford, only that either Ford Premium 5w20 or Ford Synthetic 5w20 is recommended. Thanks again.
#8
Factory Press Release said Synthetic Blend. I heard from someone that the current supplier at AAI is Shell but I cant confirm it. So my best guess would be FOMOCO Shell 5W-20. Likely the same thing you can get in a Pennzoil Can.
I just changed the oil in mine and the FOMOCO Filter that comes on it appears to be a Champion PH500 although it may have internal differences as the replacement Motorcraft (Purolator) FL500S has a 8-PSI Bypass Spring and the standard PH500 is higher than that.
I put Motorcraft (Cononco/Phillips) 5W20 Synthetic Blend in mine as the refill. The IOLM is programmed for coventional (actually almost always a synblend in 5W-20) so unless you are going to see oil temps over 260F (Open tracking) or extend drain intervals you are not really gaining anything from Synthetic.
PS If you must go to a 5W-30 make sure you go to full synthetic as most conventional 5W-30 shears to 20 weight almost immediately and is a step backwards in quality compared to 5W-20. If you do use conventional 5W-30 I would shorten up the drain intervals.
I just changed the oil in mine and the FOMOCO Filter that comes on it appears to be a Champion PH500 although it may have internal differences as the replacement Motorcraft (Purolator) FL500S has a 8-PSI Bypass Spring and the standard PH500 is higher than that.
I put Motorcraft (Cononco/Phillips) 5W20 Synthetic Blend in mine as the refill. The IOLM is programmed for coventional (actually almost always a synblend in 5W-20) so unless you are going to see oil temps over 260F (Open tracking) or extend drain intervals you are not really gaining anything from Synthetic.
PS If you must go to a 5W-30 make sure you go to full synthetic as most conventional 5W-30 shears to 20 weight almost immediately and is a step backwards in quality compared to 5W-20. If you do use conventional 5W-30 I would shorten up the drain intervals.
#9
Thanks for the Ford rational. Would bet the 20W is for CAFE. Doubt this engine is really any different in tolerances that other state of the art engines from Porsche, Ferrari or Lambo who use 0 or 5-30. I would use a tier 1V synthetic if I changed. Most folks will not notice any real difference with a good synthetic but it does give one piece of mind and the cost is not that great compared to the price of the car. If one is tracking or at the strip, I would change the 20W blend out for a good 0-30 full synthetic. Again, thanks for helping a new guy understand Ford.
#10
As a general rule the 5W-20 Oils have to have a significant amount of Group III Type Synthetic to pass the rigorous requirements Ford has. Thats regardless of whether they are marketed as Synthetic Blend.
As far as I know all Name Brands are made to meet this spec.
5W-30 Conventional generally has lower quality base stocks and shears to a 20 weight within a few hundred miles by design to meet GF4 energy conserving standards.
The typical 5W-20 is only 4% lower viscosity than the typical 5W-30,
Basically as a general rule when you buy conventional oils you will get a better built oil if you buy 5W-20 than 5W-30.
Most European Sports cars use 0W-40 to 10W-60. This is because of the high oil temps they see at sustained high speeds on the autobahn, A 60 Weight at 300F is a lot thinner than a 20 Weight at 200F.
Im not sure about the 5.0 but on the 4.6L 3V many of the parameters programmed into the PCM for operation of the VCT assume the typical viscosity of 20 Weight at that temp.
While some of the thinner 30 weights such as Castrol Syntec 5W-30 will work without a hitch some of the heavier 30 weights like the Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (German SLX) has sometimes caused issues in the 4.6L 3V. That said if you are going to be Open Tracking the car seeing sump temps above 260F you do what you have to do which would mean heavier oils.
As far as I know all Name Brands are made to meet this spec.
5W-30 Conventional generally has lower quality base stocks and shears to a 20 weight within a few hundred miles by design to meet GF4 energy conserving standards.
The typical 5W-20 is only 4% lower viscosity than the typical 5W-30,
Basically as a general rule when you buy conventional oils you will get a better built oil if you buy 5W-20 than 5W-30.
Most European Sports cars use 0W-40 to 10W-60. This is because of the high oil temps they see at sustained high speeds on the autobahn, A 60 Weight at 300F is a lot thinner than a 20 Weight at 200F.
Im not sure about the 5.0 but on the 4.6L 3V many of the parameters programmed into the PCM for operation of the VCT assume the typical viscosity of 20 Weight at that temp.
While some of the thinner 30 weights such as Castrol Syntec 5W-30 will work without a hitch some of the heavier 30 weights like the Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (German SLX) has sometimes caused issues in the 4.6L 3V. That said if you are going to be Open Tracking the car seeing sump temps above 260F you do what you have to do which would mean heavier oils.