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Tach Face Turning Red at Redline?

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Old 11-22-2010, 02:54 AM
  #11  
KXRM
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Yep, this is on mine as well and it is definitely not a shift indicator. It is to go along with the theme of the rest of the premium "My Color" dash. That is at any point things get into danger level on any gauge then the gauge pod indicates by turning to red from whatever color it is. Let your fuel run low enough and it too will turn red. However, only with the headlights on.

Basically by turning red it is saying "you are hitting the rev limiter idiot! Let off the gas." During aggressive acceleration it is normal to see it flicker though.
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Old 11-29-2010, 01:01 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by JIM5.0
Yeah, Ford does do stress tests to failure. And I am sure that they did so with the Coyote, since the engine was made in-house.

Since the mainstream production Coyote is outsourced to Exeter Canada, I hope they sample the Canadian engines and stress test those to failure to make sure that the Canadian guys are not cheating the specs.

That is a major problem with outsourcing to another country. The sub-contractors in more than one case cheat and build things to sub-specs and try to pass it to the the hiring entity as an in-spec product.
Look at all the crap that is a outsourced to China: from toys to tires we put on our cars, the Chinese sub-contractors often cheated in the past and put lead in the toy paint when Hasbro, Mattel or whatever requires a different paint.
And Chinese made tires? They were a few years back tested and the poor materials used by the Chinese makers failed minimum USDOT safety standards. And as such, they are not allowed to be sold in the US. These Chinse makers had the nerve to complain to the Chinese Communist Government which in turn had the nerve to accuse the US of trade protectionism.
Good point about the Chinese and their poor subcontracting. Let's hope that the Chinese made MT82 Getrag designed transmission will not be another example of a substandard Chinese made product.
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Old 11-29-2010, 06:59 AM
  #13  
cjs06
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This is not available on the automatic, as I have yet to see it occur when i redline.
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:58 AM
  #14  
Burns331
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It is on the automatic. My 11 GT blinks read around 7k rpm.
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Old 11-29-2010, 07:00 PM
  #15  
5.0_Coyote_GT
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Originally Posted by Burns331
It is on the automatic. My 11 GT blinks read around 7k rpm.
The headlights have to be on though to see it, correct?
Thanks,
Phil
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Old 11-30-2010, 06:03 AM
  #16  
Burns331
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Ummm no...
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Old 11-30-2010, 04:45 PM
  #17  
5.0_Coyote_GT
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Originally Posted by Burns331
Ummm no...
OK... I think I read that in order to have that feature work, the headlights needed to be on. So if not, that is even better. Thanks for your feedback!
Phil
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Old 06-18-2011, 12:51 AM
  #18  
Sleeper5.0
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Originally Posted by Burns331
It is on the automatic. My 11 GT blinks read around 7k rpm.
Mine too...

It's a idiot light
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Old 06-18-2011, 12:03 PM
  #19  
parchisi
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Originally Posted by JIM5.0
+1

Additionally, when you are already in the 6000 RPM and above bandwidth, you are already leaving the meat of the torque curve. That is assuming a bone stock Coyote with stock tune.

However, if you have mods that add power and extend the meat of your torque curve into above 6000RPM, that is the time it would actually be beneficial to stay in the gear just a tad longer. But you had better rebuilt the lower end with better conrods, pistons, piston rings, journal bearings, etc, the 7000RPM (or really, 6800RPM) was actually installed by Ford to prevent placing high RPM stresses on the innards.
You actually always want to shift at or near redline regardless of torque curve. The higher gear more than makes up the difference in a torque decline vs the lower next gear. Think about it, would you accelerate faster in 1st gear with 20 less ft-lbs or torque, or in 2nd gear with 20 more ft-lbs or torque? At least this is what I've been lead to believe over the years.

Last edited by parchisi; 06-18-2011 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:09 PM
  #20  
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Actually, you only want to downshift to redline or very close to redline if your intent is to use the engine to assist with slowing down.

If your intent is to downshift for better acceleration, you want to downshift to an RPM bandwidth quite a bit less than redline so you have room to accelerate. If you think about it, let's say you downshift and you hit 6500RPM; you only have 300rpm to accelerate with which is pretty useless. You will want to downshift to maybe 4500-5500rpm bandwidth so you have 2300-1300rpm to play width before you hit redline.
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