Does any one know if the U Joints can be lubricated on a 2012 GT. Usually most drive shafts joints have to be lubricated..I looked at the drive shaft and didn't see anywhere to lub the the U Joints. But, I could be blind thou and missed them. How about the bearing in the middle of the shaft? Probably a dumb question, but thought I would find out for sure.

I have a slight clunk every now and then coming from the drive shaft. I wish Chilton would come out with a repair guide.

Thanks

 

It's been ages since the OEM's have made anything easily serviceable like that. Your options are to take it apart and lube it or replace the joints with after market units that have grease zerks. This was all done in the (false) belief that the less places to grease, the better.

Frank

 

The clunk is normal. Drivetrain slop is always there. But no, there arent any grease points.

 

Thanks for the information. It has been a long time since I have owned an American made car. My first car was a 1969 Cougar XR7, and every car after was a Japanese car until last year when I got my Mustang GT. I was more familiar with the old grease fittings, at least on the U joints and assumed they would still be installed on the Mustangs.

 

Thank you for the information. Do you know why Ford installed a two piece drive shaft with a bearing in the middle rather than a one piece drive shaft? I was curious since you can supposedly replace the current one with a solid drive shaft with no problems. Ford Racing and other companies sell them.

 

We also have to deal with a rubber mounted carrier bearing. That makes the clunk clowe1965 describe only worse. I have never been able to figure out why Ford went that way with a driveshaft so short. I am also with you on the fact that a U joint needs a shot of grease every now and then.

 

Not sure why they went with the two piece either. My 92 ranger had a two piece as well. Might be so they can change the first portion of the shaft to accommodate the different transmission/engine configurations and save cost be only modifying a shorter shaft than the entire one. Just speculation here.

The one piece does help with the clunk, and a significant performance benefit. Also helps me sleep at night knowing I am less likely to shear my ds.

 

I do know that if the carrier bearing goes out, the bearing itself cannot be replaced. It is far cheaper to go with a 1 piece aluminum DS.

 

The only time I get a clunk is when I come completely off the accelerator in 6th and then I go back on after the car start engine braking..... Usually only below 2000rpm. Thought I was going crazy but it appears to be common lol

 

One reason for the two piece driveshaft is crash worthiness. With the stock shaft the engine can submarine under the chassis during a frontal collision with less force and therefore it is less likely to intrude into the passenger compartment.