Ford Racing Boss 302 oil cooler.
#11
Here it is. The vendor from cooltech is quoted below.
http://forums.themustangsource.com/f...504360/index2/
"But, here's the bombshell....
The Ford Racing Cooler is designed to be in SERIES to the OEM oil-to-water cooler! You will NOT replace the existing cooler.... you will simply add this cooler on. Without going too far, I can only say that there is compelling data that adding to the existing cooler can be even more effective than replacing the existing cooling system. As such, we are in process to make a small change to our kit to allow for keeping the OEM cooler and running the TWO coolers in series. (We are updating those who already purchased our kit free of charge, BTW.) All new Cool Tech kits will also be in series to the OEM cooler. This will make installation MUCH easier - no need to drain or fiddle with the cooling system or radiator hoses. Also, from a cost perspective - there will be no added cost to our kit as the new component (similar to Ford's) is slightly LESS expensive than the block adapter that we were including.
So, as of this writing, BOTH the Ford Racing Kit and the Cool Tech kit will run in series with the OEM cooler. The differences in the kits as I enumerated in the table a few posts ago are all valid. The specifications (cooling capacity, retail cooler prices, pressure drops, etc.) are straight from Setrab. The biggest difference in the two systems is that Ford has chosen to run 2 coolers in series with no thermostatic control on either. We will run the OEM cooler "as is" and will bring the much larger Setrab cooler "on-line" at 180 degrees.
Finally, as I said a couple of months ago - and we will follow through.... we intend to have a second offering that is NOT thermostatically controlled and with no remote filter relocation in order to compete price-wise with the solution from Ford Racing. This second alternative from Cool Tech will retain the larger (3x more expensive)cooler, but it allows us to eliminate the remote filter / thermostat, 2 lines, & 4 fittings. As such, we can offer 2 solutions at two different price points.
__________________
http://www.cooltechllc.com"
http://forums.themustangsource.com/f...504360/index2/
"But, here's the bombshell....
The Ford Racing Cooler is designed to be in SERIES to the OEM oil-to-water cooler! You will NOT replace the existing cooler.... you will simply add this cooler on. Without going too far, I can only say that there is compelling data that adding to the existing cooler can be even more effective than replacing the existing cooling system. As such, we are in process to make a small change to our kit to allow for keeping the OEM cooler and running the TWO coolers in series. (We are updating those who already purchased our kit free of charge, BTW.) All new Cool Tech kits will also be in series to the OEM cooler. This will make installation MUCH easier - no need to drain or fiddle with the cooling system or radiator hoses. Also, from a cost perspective - there will be no added cost to our kit as the new component (similar to Ford's) is slightly LESS expensive than the block adapter that we were including.
So, as of this writing, BOTH the Ford Racing Kit and the Cool Tech kit will run in series with the OEM cooler. The differences in the kits as I enumerated in the table a few posts ago are all valid. The specifications (cooling capacity, retail cooler prices, pressure drops, etc.) are straight from Setrab. The biggest difference in the two systems is that Ford has chosen to run 2 coolers in series with no thermostatic control on either. We will run the OEM cooler "as is" and will bring the much larger Setrab cooler "on-line" at 180 degrees.
Finally, as I said a couple of months ago - and we will follow through.... we intend to have a second offering that is NOT thermostatically controlled and with no remote filter relocation in order to compete price-wise with the solution from Ford Racing. This second alternative from Cool Tech will retain the larger (3x more expensive)cooler, but it allows us to eliminate the remote filter / thermostat, 2 lines, & 4 fittings. As such, we can offer 2 solutions at two different price points.
__________________
http://www.cooltechllc.com"
#12
Thanks for the additional information. Are you going to run both coolers or just the boss cooler? What about the radiator, are you leaving the stock one in or upgrading to the boss radiator?
Wayne
Wayne
#13
I haven't gotten my car to a road course yet, kinda pricey. I'm running the single cooler now. No immediate plans to upgrade the radiator, I'll probably do it sometime in the next 3-5 years to coincide with a fluid changeout and flush.
If I was going to run on the track (Actual competitions or more than 2 track events per year), probably the cooltech system because of the thermostat in series with the boss cooler, plus the fluidyne 3 radiator. I'd also upgrade to the boss 302 oil pump to compensate for the extra pressure head from the two coolers. You can piece together a kit for a bit cheaper (400-600) so that's the best on the wallet route, but if you don't know what you're doing then your stuck with bolt ons.
With the 11-12 engines there are other upgrades I'd do prior to seriously tracking the internals, mainly the rotating assembly being weaker than the 13's. I'd switch those out for a boss rotating assembly or better, boss valve springs, and delete the oil squirters.
If I was going to run on the track (Actual competitions or more than 2 track events per year), probably the cooltech system because of the thermostat in series with the boss cooler, plus the fluidyne 3 radiator. I'd also upgrade to the boss 302 oil pump to compensate for the extra pressure head from the two coolers. You can piece together a kit for a bit cheaper (400-600) so that's the best on the wallet route, but if you don't know what you're doing then your stuck with bolt ons.
With the 11-12 engines there are other upgrades I'd do prior to seriously tracking the internals, mainly the rotating assembly being weaker than the 13's. I'd switch those out for a boss rotating assembly or better, boss valve springs, and delete the oil squirters.
#15
Took me about 3 hours on jack stands. The spring hose clamps are a pain, but that is mostly because of the room you have to get some channel-locs in there. The instructions say to put the hoses on the cooler before mounting the cooler on the car. I couldn't fit the assembly through the frame like that though. I had to put the hoses through after I had gotten the cooler into its rough position, then connect everything. Also filling the system through the reservoir takes a while. It goes faster if you have a small funnel that you can plug into one of the small vent hoses. Took me roughly 1 gallon of 50/50 coolant. I'd recommend taking out the intake tube for this. You don't have to, but it opens up a lot of room from the top.
#17
The expensive crap from ford, specialty orange. I haven't really found anything else that is fully endorsed by ford, plus doing this doesn't drain/flush the entire system so you'd be mixing coolant brands/types for a simple top off.
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