Relatively new owner of 2014 GT with 26000 miles and MT82 manual transmission. As the car goes above 48 mph a small vibration starts up and it grows as speed increases up to about 70-75 mph when the frequency of the vibration is so high that the vibrations seem to smooth out. It’s definitely driveline or tires/wheels related, doesn’t matter what gear I’m in or if the clutch is engaged or not. There is a light vibe felt in the steering wheel just as I softly steer from left to right of center, but it’s a very light vibe. Can driveshaft vibration from a failing carrier bearing present vibration like this? In addition to the steering wheel there is a general “thrumming vibration” felt during these speeds as well. Tires and wheels are new with just 500 miles on them. I plan to go back to the tire shop and ask them to check the balance and look for out of round or a bead that’s not uniformly seated before I put the car on a lift to check the carrier bearing and cv & u-joint on the 2 piece driveshaft..

Any insights from this community would be appreciated.

“New” to me 2014 GT/CS

 

I think you are on the right track. First check would be the wheels and tires if the vibration started after the new tires. Driveshaft carrier bearing would be a long shot with so few miles but worth checking.

 

Another Bad Carrier Bearing Isolator?I am a new owner of a 1 owner 2014 Mustang GT/CS manual transmission with about 26800 miles on the car. Staring at about 48 mph and going up to at least 75 there is a driveline vibration I now suspect is the carrier bearing rubber isolator failing, becoming too soft.
Trouble shooting
- new tires, tires rebalanced twice.
- wheels ans axles checked for runout - all good. Checked wheels both on the tire balancer and mounted on the car, rear axle on jacks, idle it in 1st gear and the tires and wheels were good.
- put car in 6th and ran it up to 70 and the vibration starts at about 48 as before.
- put car in neutral with brake on and ran engine up to 2000rpm, smooth
- got under the car and pushed and pulled on the driveshaft and very easily got the the carrier bearing to move up and down and left and right - easily.

So looking for your community expertise, but I think the carrier bearing is bad and allowing the DS to vibrate.

My next decision will be do I replace with the OE Motorcraft DS or install a Ford Performance aluminum 1-piece DS?

thanks for your Mustang expertise.

 

Isn't the carrier bearing a separate piece? If so, just replace that. Money no object, do the driveshaft.

 

Unfortunately the carrier bearing is non-serviceable. Therefore the only option is a new driveshaft. I'd recommend a one-piece aluminium unit e.g. Driveshaft Shop, Ford Performance. Not only will you be rid of the carrier bearing headache forever but the ~18lb weight saving is also welcome.

 

Did you install the Ford Performance DS? If so, how is it working out for you?

 

Like Dino Dino said, the DE isn’t “serviceable” and is a replacement item. I’ve never had to replace a DS, I’ve had some u-joints fail on 4x4s but this “disposable driveshaft” is a new concept for me.

 

Yesterday I installed a Ford Performance Aluminum driveshaft in my 2014 Mustang GT with 6 speed manual transmission. The installation was done with the car front end up on steel ramps and the rear axle supported on two 3-ton jackstands. Total time was about 2:45hrs with a friend helping. We were able to leave the exhaust system installed and only had a few issues with the extraction and installation of the new DS. The biggest problems or challenges was getting the 6 rear flange bolts torqued to 41lb-ft. I was able to torque the two 13mm hex head bolts using a 13mm flare nut crowfoot wrench from Teckton. Teckton confirmed the wrench was tested to 50 ft-lbs. Even using this I needed an extension to clear the u-joint as the torque wrench would contact the u-joint. The 4 8mm hex key bolts were also a challenge. After snugging them down with an 8mm hex key, I used an 8mm key / 3/8ths drive with ujoint and extension. The hex key was a tight fit and was actually snug against the ujoint bearing cap but we were able to do this as well. I guess my question is why the hex key bolt selection for the rear bolts and not use hex head bolts like are supplied for the two that are under the ujoint caps?

At any rate the vibration that used to be there starting at 48mph and going up to about 80mph when it seemed to me to diminish probably because the frequency was so high, that vibration is now gone. A secondary observation is that the clunk with shifting in the first 3 shifts is very much reduced, a lot. The clunk with power on / off is also very much reduced. I attribute most for the clunking to the carrier bearing rubber isolator having become so soft that the driveshaft was essentially banging around in the carrier bearing mount when power was changing and to a lessor extent to additional slack I can feel in the whole original driveshaft. Hopefully this problem is now resolved.

Ford Performance Aluminum driveshaft part number M-4602-MGTM

 

Awesome.