Rattling Hurst...
The rattle comes from the ball/socket. I fixed mine by inserting a 1" section of plastic flex hose (1 9/16" OD, 1 3/16" ID) between the underside of the ball/socket and the shift linkage under the car. It acts as a "spring" keeping moderate pressure between the ball/socket and the shift linkage arm, thus killing the vibrations which cause it to rattle.
Here are some pics to help:


Here's what you do:
1 - Get under the car & disconnect the linkage from the shifter. (Remove 13mm nut and pull linkage arm from shifter's "business end")
2 - Remove the two plastic bushings & slide the hose over the shifter end that connects to the linkage.
3 - Replace the bushings & re-connect the linkage.
4 - Test-drive the car. Expect the shifting to feel slightly tight, but very positive engagement in each gear. ENJOY hearing the engine roar thru the gears without that nasty rattle!
Here are some pics to help:


Here's what you do:
1 - Get under the car & disconnect the linkage from the shifter. (Remove 13mm nut and pull linkage arm from shifter's "business end")
2 - Remove the two plastic bushings & slide the hose over the shifter end that connects to the linkage.
3 - Replace the bushings & re-connect the linkage.
4 - Test-drive the car. Expect the shifting to feel slightly tight, but very positive engagement in each gear. ENJOY hearing the engine roar thru the gears without that nasty rattle!
Dave, you're a little confused.. It's just ONE PIECE, the blue hose is black on the inside.
The section of hose goes over the end of the shifter perpendicular to the direction of the bushings.. once it's on there, it's held in place by reconnecting the shift linkage. The top of the hose contacts the ball/socket and the bottom of the hose rests on the linkage just above the bushings. The spring pressure and plastic quality of the hose maintains pressure on the shifter & linkage such that the vibrations are deadend.
The section of hose goes over the end of the shifter perpendicular to the direction of the bushings.. once it's on there, it's held in place by reconnecting the shift linkage. The top of the hose contacts the ball/socket and the bottom of the hose rests on the linkage just above the bushings. The spring pressure and plastic quality of the hose maintains pressure on the shifter & linkage such that the vibrations are deadend.
Dave, you're a little confused.. It's just ONE PIECE, the blue hose is black on the inside.
The section of hose goes over the end of the shifter perpendicular to the direction of the bushings.. once it's on there, it's held in place by reconnecting the shift linkage. The top of the hose contacts the ball/socket and the bottom of the hose rests on the linkage just above the bushings. The spring pressure and plastic quality of the hose maintains pressure on the shifter & linkage such that the vibrations are deadend.
The section of hose goes over the end of the shifter perpendicular to the direction of the bushings.. once it's on there, it's held in place by reconnecting the shift linkage. The top of the hose contacts the ball/socket and the bottom of the hose rests on the linkage just above the bushings. The spring pressure and plastic quality of the hose maintains pressure on the shifter & linkage such that the vibrations are deadend.
I can take even the simplest concepts and make them very difficult
The rattle comes from the ball/socket. I fixed mine by inserting a 1" section of plastic flex hose (1 9/16" OD, 1 3/16" ID) between the underside of the ball/socket and the shift linkage under the car. It acts as a "spring" keeping moderate pressure between the ball/socket and the shift linkage arm, thus killing the vibrations which cause it to rattle.
Here's what you do:
1 - Get under the car & disconnect the linkage from the shifter. (Remove 13mm nut and pull linkage arm from shifter's "business end")
2 - Remove the two plastic bushings & slide the hose over the shifter end that connects to the linkage.
3 - Replace the bushings & re-connect the linkage.
4 - Test-drive the car. Expect the shifting to feel slightly tight, but very positive engagement in each gear. ENJOY hearing the engine roar thru the gears without that nasty rattle!
Here's what you do:
1 - Get under the car & disconnect the linkage from the shifter. (Remove 13mm nut and pull linkage arm from shifter's "business end")
2 - Remove the two plastic bushings & slide the hose over the shifter end that connects to the linkage.
3 - Replace the bushings & re-connect the linkage.
4 - Test-drive the car. Expect the shifting to feel slightly tight, but very positive engagement in each gear. ENJOY hearing the engine roar thru the gears without that nasty rattle!
MTAS - Glad to hear from someone who followed up on this... many seem to read it, ignore it, and go on suffering. It's very gratifying to help someone! Doesn't that feel & sound SO much better? 
Now that you've installed the "Silencer", if you want to be sure you've done EVERYTHING to eliminate the rattle, get inside the car and pull off the shifter's rubber dust booty and spray some "Break-Free", or liquid "Creep" on the top side of the ball/socket (enough to "pool up" over the ball). As it penetrates the mechanism over the course of hours/days, it fills the void between the metal parts, thus creating a hydraulic "cushion", silencing that last bit of rattle!
My final tip comes from an "impulse purchase" I made over the weekend - I was in Advance Auto Parts and saw the Hurst TEE handle for $29, so I bought it and installed it in the parking lot.. WOW! I immediately fell in LOVE with the ERGONOMIC shape and the increased leverage, but after driving for a while and going WOT a few times as I'm wont to do
- I realized this change in the shifter handle had altered its characteristic natural frequency response such that the vibrations coming from the engine/tranny were NOT exciting the shifter as much as they had when I was using the "Cue Ball" handle! This is a well-known phenomenon to Engineers, we work with it LOTS!
BTW, I also LOVE the "badass" look the meaty TEE gave my interior!
I recommend that ALL who have the "Rattling Hurst Blues" follow these ideas... it's my wish that you too create a Mustang experience a blissful as mine!

Now that you've installed the "Silencer", if you want to be sure you've done EVERYTHING to eliminate the rattle, get inside the car and pull off the shifter's rubber dust booty and spray some "Break-Free", or liquid "Creep" on the top side of the ball/socket (enough to "pool up" over the ball). As it penetrates the mechanism over the course of hours/days, it fills the void between the metal parts, thus creating a hydraulic "cushion", silencing that last bit of rattle!

My final tip comes from an "impulse purchase" I made over the weekend - I was in Advance Auto Parts and saw the Hurst TEE handle for $29, so I bought it and installed it in the parking lot.. WOW! I immediately fell in LOVE with the ERGONOMIC shape and the increased leverage, but after driving for a while and going WOT a few times as I'm wont to do
- I realized this change in the shifter handle had altered its characteristic natural frequency response such that the vibrations coming from the engine/tranny were NOT exciting the shifter as much as they had when I was using the "Cue Ball" handle! This is a well-known phenomenon to Engineers, we work with it LOTS! BTW, I also LOVE the "badass" look the meaty TEE gave my interior!
I recommend that ALL who have the "Rattling Hurst Blues" follow these ideas... it's my wish that you too create a Mustang experience a blissful as mine!


