Rattling Hurst...
MTAS - Glad to hear from someone who followed up on this... many seem to read it, ignore it, and go on suffering. It's very gratifying to help someone! Doesn't that feel & sound SO much better? 
Now that you've installed the "Silencer", if you want to be sure you've done EVERYTHING to eliminate the rattle, get inside the car and pull off the shifter's rubber dust booty and spray some "Break-Free", or liquid "Creep" on the top side of the ball/socket (enough to "pool up" over the ball). As it penetrates the mechanism over the course of hours/days, it fills the void between the metal parts, thus creating a hydraulic "cushion", silencing that last bit of rattle!

Now that you've installed the "Silencer", if you want to be sure you've done EVERYTHING to eliminate the rattle, get inside the car and pull off the shifter's rubber dust booty and spray some "Break-Free", or liquid "Creep" on the top side of the ball/socket (enough to "pool up" over the ball). As it penetrates the mechanism over the course of hours/days, it fills the void between the metal parts, thus creating a hydraulic "cushion", silencing that last bit of rattle!

The rattle comes from the ball/socket. I fixed mine by inserting a 1" section of plastic flex hose (1 9/16" OD, 1 3/16" ID) between the underside of the ball/socket and the shift linkage under the car. It acts as a "spring" keeping moderate pressure between the ball/socket and the shift linkage arm, thus killing the vibrations which cause it to rattle.
Here are some pics to help:





Here's what you do:
1 - Get under the car & disconnect the linkage from the shifter. (Remove 13mm nut and pull linkage arm from shifter's "business end")
2 - Remove the two plastic bushings & slide the hose over the shifter end that connects to the linkage.
3 - Replace the bushings & re-connect the linkage.
4 - Test-drive the car. Expect the shifting to feel slightly tight, but very positive engagement in each gear. ENJOY hearing the engine roar thru the gears without that nasty rattle!
Here are some pics to help:





Here's what you do:
1 - Get under the car & disconnect the linkage from the shifter. (Remove 13mm nut and pull linkage arm from shifter's "business end")
2 - Remove the two plastic bushings & slide the hose over the shifter end that connects to the linkage.
3 - Replace the bushings & re-connect the linkage.
4 - Test-drive the car. Expect the shifting to feel slightly tight, but very positive engagement in each gear. ENJOY hearing the engine roar thru the gears without that nasty rattle!
I need to do this myself, Altho My shifter has very and I mean very litle up and down movement. So Im thinking of just going under the car and trying the other method first. What you guys think? or should I do the hose trick first.
Just curious, what Hurst shifters are you using that rattle? The regular or the billet? I'm using the billet, and like Ato said, I don't experience any when I drive a round town. I rarely hear anything at high RPMs also. I did hear some rattling the first week after it was installed, but since it has broken in, I don't hear anything.
MTAS - Glad to hear from someone who followed up on this... many seem to read it, ignore it, and go on suffering. It's very gratifying to help someone! Doesn't that feel & sound SO much better? 
Now that you've installed the "Silencer", if you want to be sure you've done EVERYTHING to eliminate the rattle, get inside the car and pull off the shifter's rubber dust booty and spray some "Break-Free", or liquid "Creep" on the top side of the ball/socket (enough to "pool up" over the ball). As it penetrates the mechanism over the course of hours/days, it fills the void between the metal parts, thus creating a hydraulic "cushion", silencing that last bit of rattle!
My final tip comes from an "impulse purchase" I made over the weekend - I was in Advance Auto Parts and saw the Hurst TEE handle for $29, so I bought it and installed it in the parking lot.. WOW! I immediately fell in LOVE with the ERGONOMIC shape and the increased leverage, but after driving for a while and going WOT a few times as I'm wont to do
- I realized this change in the shifter handle had altered its characteristic natural frequency response such that the vibrations coming from the engine/tranny were NOT exciting the shifter as much as they had when I was using the "Cue Ball" handle! This is a well-known phenomenon to Engineers, we work with it LOTS!
BTW, I also LOVE the "badass" look the meaty TEE gave my interior!
I recommend that ALL who have the "Rattling Hurst Blues" follow these ideas... it's my wish that you too create a Mustang experience a blissful as mine!

Now that you've installed the "Silencer", if you want to be sure you've done EVERYTHING to eliminate the rattle, get inside the car and pull off the shifter's rubber dust booty and spray some "Break-Free", or liquid "Creep" on the top side of the ball/socket (enough to "pool up" over the ball). As it penetrates the mechanism over the course of hours/days, it fills the void between the metal parts, thus creating a hydraulic "cushion", silencing that last bit of rattle!

My final tip comes from an "impulse purchase" I made over the weekend - I was in Advance Auto Parts and saw the Hurst TEE handle for $29, so I bought it and installed it in the parking lot.. WOW! I immediately fell in LOVE with the ERGONOMIC shape and the increased leverage, but after driving for a while and going WOT a few times as I'm wont to do
- I realized this change in the shifter handle had altered its characteristic natural frequency response such that the vibrations coming from the engine/tranny were NOT exciting the shifter as much as they had when I was using the "Cue Ball" handle! This is a well-known phenomenon to Engineers, we work with it LOTS! BTW, I also LOVE the "badass" look the meaty TEE gave my interior!
I recommend that ALL who have the "Rattling Hurst Blues" follow these ideas... it's my wish that you too create a Mustang experience a blissful as mine!

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