I'm lowering my car with H&R super sports. I was wondering if i'll be able to correct all the negative camber with bolts. I hear that they can correct up to two degrees of camber. How much negative camber should I expect from these springs and will the bolts correct them? I really don't want to spend a couple hundred on the plates right now.

 

https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l...ering-car.html

I wouldn't do bolts. I had the same question. Read this thread and it should answer some of your questions.

 

lol thanks man. I read this thread a while back and it helped me out quite a bit but I was just trying to see if I could save some cash. BTW, would you happen to know what your negative camber was when you had them installed?

 

It's almost 2 degrees of negative camber.

And I know what you mean about not wanting to spend the money for CC plates but I'm telling you man, save yourself some possible long-term trouble and go with the plates. The Maximum Motorsport ones I have on mine are great. They look great under the hood, very high-quality materials, and a lifetime warranty.

I got them for 199.99 on american muscle.

 

Lets hope that I won't regret this later but i'll buy the bolts and if those don't work out, then i'll buy the plates. Even if the bolts don't correct camber all the way, a couple tenths negative would be fine for tighter turning I think.

 

The factory camber spec is -0.5° +/- 0.75°--I.e. +0.25° to -1.25°.

Because of the camber curve of the McPherson strut front-end you want more negative camber for improved turning characteristics. Autocross guys run as much as -3.0° or even a bit more, but that will make the car twitchy on the highway and cause uneven tire wear--actually anything much over -1.5° will cause the tires to wear on the inside.

I run at -1.25°, the "top" of the factory range, and it really makes the car handle great. It costs me 8k to 10k in tread wear, but it's worth it IMHO...

 

Thanks cliff. However, I just put on new tires and I will aim between -.25 to -.75 since I really don't autocross.

Will the toe and caster be fine after these springs?

 

It will have to be aligned of course, however it's only the camber adjustment range that is affected by the lowering springs.

Re the camber bolts, I would not use them on a go-kart, but it's your money and life...

 

Would you have the time to explain to me why they're so bad? I mean if the alignment can be corrected, what can be bad? I must not be understanding something correctly. Please help.

 

Camber bolts work, however because of the way they work they are of necessity lesser diameter than the stock bolts. This, combined with the "steps" at either side of the eccentric cam, make the overall design inherently weaker.

I.e. they are now where near as strong as the stock bolt, even if made from the same grade of steel as used in the stock bolt-which is a very high grade alloy heat treated to Ford's demanding specifications.



BTW--for years they have been "crash bolts"--any guesses as to why?

The smaller diameter means are torqued less tightly, meaning they support lesser loads--and because they are not as strong they stretch, and come loose, and should be checked every 10k miles or so. After they have stretched for a while they will eventually snap after you have re-torqued them 5 or 6 times.

Which is good 'cause otherwise they would snap while you were driving...

Other than that they are great...

They make CC plates because they are safer and a far superior way to correct alignment problems than using inherently weaker bolts of unknown material and manufacture.

If you want to lower a new-edge 2" or more, and do it properly, use drop-spindles:



Safe, Cheap, Fast--pick any two.