MACH 460 > New Head Unit
2000 ford mustang gt with the mach 460 sound system. has the radio and tape console on top and the one disc cd player on bottom. i would like to put something in the reads mp3 discs and plug an ipod into but keep the same great power it has right now.
ORIGINAL: ttocs
They are available at any auto parts store or car audio store.
The line driver is specifically for if you use the rca sub output of the deck. The factory amps are used to getting a little higher power signal then RCA. With out the line driver the bass distorts and sounds really bad when the rest of the speakers are just starting to sound good...
ORIGINAL: Roushy
Yeah I saw that... nice write up but you never say where to get those wiring harnesses
Yeah I saw that... nice write up but you never say where to get those wiring harnesses
The line driver is specifically for if you use the rca sub output of the deck. The factory amps are used to getting a little higher power signal then RCA. With out the line driver the bass distorts and sounds really bad when the rest of the speakers are just starting to sound good...
Have 95 Gt....the deck I am going to install only has rca outs. No speaker leads.
If I understand correctly, The bypass harness is where I remove the amp signal feeding the speakers? I need to disconnect this bypass harness and then just leave it apart or am I plugging into it? Does the bypass harness remove the mach amps from just the tweeters or all of the speakers?
Sorry to keep asking, just not quite understanding. Have looked at your photos and it isn't making much since to me. I do appreciate your time with this.
This is how I understand it. Except if I do it this way, it seems that the line driver still feeds all of the speakers and I would have the problem of overdriving the tweeters?
Deck--rca outs red and white--->line driver--->small black harness(speakers)
The grey harness is all of the power/acc stuff.
what is the other harness in your last photo on your cardomain page for?
no worries ask all the questions ya want. I will try to take note and update my site to answer these q?s for the future.
if you are using a deck with no amplifier built in(passive), then the bypass hrns will not help you. You are correct, this hrns is between the factory amp and the speakers so this is where you would wire the new decks amp directly to the sepakers, if you had an amp in your deck. You will need to use the small black square hrns that is plugged into the factory deck if you are not going to hook up an aftermarket amp to the speakers.
if you are using a deck with no amplifier built in(passive), then the bypass hrns will not help you. You are correct, this hrns is between the factory amp and the speakers so this is where you would wire the new decks amp directly to the sepakers, if you had an amp in your deck. You will need to use the small black square hrns that is plugged into the factory deck if you are not going to hook up an aftermarket amp to the speakers.
Okay, this makes sense now. thanks for clearing this up. My deck does have a built in amp, I just didn't make that part clear.
One last question though, I still see you had three connectors in use? I have everything wired up on the deck side ready to plug in but only have two connectors coming from the deck. The small black one with for all of the speakers which will plug into the bypss harness and a larger rectangular grey connector for all of the power stuff.
What is the third connector you show in that last photo for?
Thanks again. Really hoping that this works this time. I was not at all happy with the sound when I did this before.
One last question though, I still see you had three connectors in use? I have everything wired up on the deck side ready to plug in but only have two connectors coming from the deck. The small black one with for all of the speakers which will plug into the bypss harness and a larger rectangular grey connector for all of the power stuff.
What is the third connector you show in that last photo for?
Thanks again. Really hoping that this works this time. I was not at all happy with the sound when I did this before.
ok great, we are getting closer..... It sounds like you are doing the same thing I did and I had to tweak mine a bit to get good sound.
You want to wire the decks amplified output(speaker wires) to the bypass hrns that is on the side of the dash. Go out and get a metra 70-1770 STANDARD ford hrns, this will have two seperate hrns's in it. One will look just like the power hrns that you already have, the other will connect into the bypass hrns. to wire it all you need to do is connect the corresponding colors. I also added capacitors at that connection to act as cross-overs to take the bass out of the signal. This makes a big difference......
If you have a sub-woofer output on the deck that you want to use, this will go into the small black hrns that was connected to the back of the factory radio. You will need to cut a set of rca's and then solder/connect then to that hrns. The factory amp that powers the subs is used to a higher power output, closer to a speaker level which is hotter then the rca output on the deck. That is where the line driver comes in.
(RCA cables) (RCA your soldered) (factory wires)
Deck----------------line driver------------------small blk hrns-------------------factory amp-----------factory subs
I think I have another pic at home that might show this a little better or if it gets too bad I could make it for ya and ship it.. I am at work now and will try and remember to check when I get home
You want to wire the decks amplified output(speaker wires) to the bypass hrns that is on the side of the dash. Go out and get a metra 70-1770 STANDARD ford hrns, this will have two seperate hrns's in it. One will look just like the power hrns that you already have, the other will connect into the bypass hrns. to wire it all you need to do is connect the corresponding colors. I also added capacitors at that connection to act as cross-overs to take the bass out of the signal. This makes a big difference......
If you have a sub-woofer output on the deck that you want to use, this will go into the small black hrns that was connected to the back of the factory radio. You will need to cut a set of rca's and then solder/connect then to that hrns. The factory amp that powers the subs is used to a higher power output, closer to a speaker level which is hotter then the rca output on the deck. That is where the line driver comes in.
(RCA cables) (RCA your soldered) (factory wires)
Deck----------------line driver------------------small blk hrns-------------------factory amp-----------factory subs
I think I have another pic at home that might show this a little better or if it gets too bad I could make it for ya and ship it.. I am at work now and will try and remember to check when I get home
Nice...I see now how this will allow the bass to stay in the setup where so many folks, including myself, have been losing the bass when trying to swap to aftermarket decks.
Think I got it now. Need to go pickup the additional harness and I should be ready to give it a try. Should probably grab some caps also for taking out that bass signal....suggestions on type to use? I still have a carpet kit to install before I get on this, but most of what I need for the install I already have together.
I really appreciate the tips.
Think I got it now. Need to go pickup the additional harness and I should be ready to give it a try. Should probably grab some caps also for taking out that bass signal....suggestions on type to use? I still have a carpet kit to install before I get on this, but most of what I need for the install I already have together.
I really appreciate the tips.
I'm really not sure why people say you need to re-wire the 460. All you need to do is input your car's info at crutchfield and they will recommend/ship you everything you need (including the all important harness to make the 460 work). Do that and be done with it. I ran an extra amp turn on and rca in the back of my new alpine deck for my future amp/subs.


