I had my system hooked up at best buy...i have 2 alpine type r's powered by a Alpine v12 mono block amp (600wat rms) When the guy was finished hooking them up he said the amp didnt have enough power but how is that possible when each sub is 500 watt rms? If they were bridged would there be enough power? I am sure it has something to do with the ohms, the stuff i got is quality, not AMAZING but sounds nice, the only problem is, when i turn my volume past 18 the amp shuts off...why is that? I would love to erradicate this problem!

 

First off, in my opinion that is plenty of power to push those subs. I myself am running two alpine type r's 10" with DVC off of a 425watt mtx amp. Second, I think you are confused with impedance and wattage. When you bridge two speakers in parallel, you essentialy cut the impedance in half. In your case if your amp is rated at 600 watts at 4 ohms and the subs are DVC 4ohms/coil, then the subs should be hooked up in series between the two voice coils, and parallel between the two subs, thus giving you a 4ohm load. If this is not the case and the speakers were wired in parallel in both cases (voice coils and between the subs) then you essentially have a 2 ohm load. Now if your amp doesn't support a 2ohm load, then when you turn the stereo up, the amp may go into overload protection, hence cutting out on you. In terms of the wattage, each voice coil can handle 500watts RMS. So in other words, you could technically throw 2000 watts at the pair of subs and not exceed the RMS and that is probably why the bestbuy guy told you the amp wasn't big enough. Again though, IMO, you are fine with the amp you have. It ought to still thump mighty loud and you shouldn't need to have to buy anything else. If you were to try to install additional amps, or bigger amps you always run the risk of straining your charging system to the point that you need a larger alternator, stronger battery, etc.

 

I found yer problem, you had best buy put it in........... I also agree that that amp should be plenty of pwr for the subs.

 

So whats the sound quality drop going to be if i do have them bridged so that they run at 4ohms? I would rather be able to turn up my system louder and sacrifice a little bit of clarity, or i could be completely wrong....these are the specs...i dont know much about this stuff, i know that these were about the most expensive i could get without goin to like show quality subs.


SPECIFICATIONS:

600 watts x 1 at 2 ohms (300 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms)
# Internal, variable-speed cooling fan
# MOSFET power supply and output stages
# STAR Topology for cleaner sound
# Bass Engine® features:
# Low-pass digital filter, 30-200 Hz, with a selectable 12 or 24 dB/octave slope
# Selectable subsonic filter (off, 15Hz, or 30 Hz)
# Parametric EQ variable from 30-160 Hz, ±12 dB
# Bass Compensator enhances low-end definition
# Top-mounted digital control center with cover
# CEA-2006 Compliant
# Preamp outputs
# Time correction 0-10 milliseconds in 0.1ms steps
# Phase adjustment 0-180°
# Turn-on delay
# Requires 4-gauge power and ground leads — wiring and hardware not included with
# amplifier
# Extra-large terminals
# Fuse rating: 30A x 2
# Dimensions: 11-7/16"W x 2-1/4"H x 9"D

 

If the amp is rated to handle 2 ohm loads, which from that description it look like it can, then you should be fine. Do you know how bestbuy wired your setup?

 

i have no clue...i just want to stop the whole cutting off of the amp...i mean ive hooked up a system before so i know a VERY LITTLE about hooking stuff up, im sure i could figure it out...these are the specs on the subs...i bought them to match, the guy said i could easily run both on this amp. Any ideas how i WOULD need to hook them up to work? Cuz i will take it all apart and hook it back up

Specification

Impedance 2 Ohms

Dual Voice Coil

Power Handling: 500 watts RMS, 1500 watts peak each subwoofer

Frequency Response: 24Hz – 500Hz

Kevlar Reinforced Pulp Cone

Custom Cast Aluminum Frame with Integrated Perimeter Venting and Heat Transfer Plate

Mirrored Progressive Nomex ® Spiders with Reinforced Layer Integrated Tinsel Leads

Compound Radius Curve (CRC) Motor Structure

Multi-Stage Thermal Management System

HAMR Surround and Concealed Mount Gasket

Aluminum Airflow Motor Cover

 

Do you have the 12" Alpine Type R's, found here: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1108124880979

If so they should be 4 ohms. That means each voice coil is 4ohms, so the subs should be wired in series between voice coils and parallel between subs. Let me know if you have a different sub though, as that would change.

Also, when you turn your deck up and the amp cuts out, does the protect light on the amp come on?

 

those are in fact the subs that i have...when i turn up the deck and the amp goes a protection light does come on...or what i think is the protection light...it starts blinking and says like eRr...i dunno i usually just turn off the car and turn down the volume when i start it back up but that is SO bad for my car.

 

Ok, since you are not that familiar with wiring this kind of equipment and since bestbuy installed everything for you, I would give their roadshop a call or go up there and tell them that your amp is going into protection mode when you turn your radio up. Since they installed everything they should be able to figure out what is going on and correct it, that is if you get someone who knows what they are doing. But they should be able to take care of you no matter what. Good luck.

 

sounds like they may have wired everything in parallel, giving a 1 ohm load, I would not put it past them.

As he said you paid for the install so they should fix it. After that find a good local shop, stay away from the big box installers. They get paid a bigger bonus the quicker they get you in and out. It does not matter to them how it sounds or more importantly if you are happy as their bonuses will be the same........