I am running a scocshe line-out converter off a stock mach 460 sound system in a 1999 Mustang GT. I am running a Lanzar Vibe 426 4-channel 1600 watt amplifier bridged down to two channels to 2 10" sony xplod subwoofers. What's happening is when I play some music in my car, the subs will be hitting nicely at one point, then it's almost like they back off or something and stop hitting hard. They kind of switch between hitting hard and soft for some reason. The amplifier never cuts off on me usually, and the amp feels cool while all this is going on. I don't think it's a heat issue, but maybe something else could be causing it...like a dropped signal or something. I hope some of you may might know what could be causing it.

 

Not sure about your amp, but my amps cut output to half-power if they're running hot, then shutdown as a last resort. Odd that yours doesn't feel hot, though. Maybe you have a loose connection on one of the subs that loses contact during cornering or accelleration.

 

what is the ohm rating of the subs and voice coil configeration?

 

It sounds like the gain on your amp needs to be turned down. You need to get a Volt meter and match the gain on the amp with what the line converter is putting out. If you can't then see if there is a gain adjustment on the line out converter. It's best to do this while the head unit is running 3/4 max volume.

Also, how are the amps wired? Series (+amp to + on speaker1, - Speaker1 to +Speaker2, -Speaker2 to -amp..... or Parallel all + to all + and all - to all -)?

 

Thats your problem right there...
It could be the song your listening to weird bassline to it, or the lack there of quality audio componets. Your LO converter is killing your SQ just so you know.

 

Are you saying my line out converter is killing my sound quality? Do I need a different converter? If so, maybe you have some suggestions.

 

I think it is the combination of the LOC as well as the fact that you are amplifying a dirty signal. Where did you tap the LOC signal at? If you got it after the factory amp, you are amplifying the noise of the factory deck, and the factory amp and then adding the noise that the Lanzar amp(not that it is junk, all amps have noise). Garbage in = Garbage out.......

 

No...
Yes thats what im saying, Replacing your deck can give you better bass, better treble, better sound separation. Overall it will make everything sound much much better, without even swapping your speakers, but thats a good idea as well. Just make sure it has front and rear rca outputs, preferably non-fader output as well. And you'll definatly gain alot of what your missing right now. Check out like an Eclipse CD3000, front, rear, non-fader outputs. 5 volt pre-outs, ipod/sirius ready, motorized face, ESN. Only drawbacks for this one is... No remote (not that you need it), only having the one aux input, one color display. Step up to a CD4000 and you'll get that remote, 2 inputs 1 rca and 1 ipbus input, and you get a selectable display color so you can match or choose your own color. CD3000 is decent priced for what your getting $250, but the CD4000 has some good features for the extra money, CD4000 $350.

 

Yeah I've been wanting to get a new deck installed and come off the mach 460 amp crap. Will I be able to rip out all the amps from the mach once I get a good stereo installed?

I used the subwoofer install guide that tells you to tap off the data cable in the rear

Could it be that I don't have everything installed properly on the converter? BTW, someone recommended that I try to match the gain on the LOC to the stereo or something. How can I do that?

 

yes but some new wiring may be required. I myself would be removing everything and getting a 4 channel and a sub amp and not even mess with you decks built in amp. I wouldn't necessarily remove the wiring for the mach system, the amps are going to be dead weight though so you might as well.